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You are a real estate investor. Your goal is to buy a few houses in your neighborhood at the best price possible. So you target foreclosures, right? First you will need to find a local foreclosure listing service (such as Foreclosures.com). Most large cities have them, and they save a lot of time.
Then comes the "weeding" process. You are weeding in order to keep only those leads with equity. The more equity you find, the more profits for you! Here is my simple four-step weeding process:
Step one
I start by property zip code. I suggest you start with where you live and then go out about ten miles. In my area, that gives me about seven zip codes and keeps me very busy. You will have to do some testing to determine which zip codes will get you the volume of deals you are seeking.
Step two
Next, you'll need to weed out anything that is NOT one to four units residential. I keep only the leads for single-family homes, duplexes, triplexes, quadplexes, town homes, and condominiums.
Step three
Then you'll need to determine your target resale value range. I suggest you stay close to the median price. In my area, my resale value range is $200,000 to $300,000.
Stay away from the "low-end" resale homes. They tend to be costly during renovation. (Items simply walk out the door when you are not looking.) Stay away from the "high-end" homes, too. If you don't sell them quickly, the carrying costs will kill you.
Step four
Finally, I look for equity by comparing the "resale value" to the "loan in foreclosure." Using the "top value" of the range, I figure the loan-to-value (LTV) percent for this deal. Anything 70% or less is a KEEPER!
I used the higher end of the range, as my house will be totally fixed up and sold three or four months down the road. I will most likely get MORE than this top end range. Remember, this is just a "quick value" NOT the actual resale value when I sell it.
For example:
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The Market Valuation Range is $230,000 to $270,000
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I take $270,000 as my resale value
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I divide the $270,000 resale value into the loan in default. In this case, the loan is $170,000
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This is a 63% LTV deal. It is less than 70%. It is a keeper!
Okay, now you know how I "weed my leads". Your next question should be, "What do I do now?" Get on the phone!
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Three Ways to Buy Your First Foreclosure
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So, you just want to buy foreclosures? You want it to be "simple and easy" and at the same time--a great buy. So you ask, "What's the best way to buy foreclosures?" I wish I could answer with, "It's easy, just do this . . . " But I'm sorry, I'm just not going to lie to you. Buying foreclosures is NOT easy, and there is NO one "best way" to buy foreclosures.
The key to ANY "great buy" is a truly motivated seller. Someone who wants cash more than they want to keep their house--someone who wants to sell you his home more than you want to buy it (you must have good "walk away" power). Once you have a motivated seller, you are half way to your goal of buying a house below market value.
So, I'll give three ways to buy foreclosures. Which of these is the best? Well, it's up to you to decide. I'll just lay the ground rules and then you can let ME know which option you think, is best for YOU, okay?
1. Pre-foreclosure owners
Once a Notice of Default, or Lis Pendens, has been filed, the owners are now in foreclosure and must do something or risk losing their property, all their equity, and their credit. Months before the auction (trustee or sheriff sale), contact the owners directly and offer to purchase their home by "paying them cash for their equity."
Mention the benefits they will realize when they decide to sell, such as stopping the foreclosure; preventing further damage to their credit; and getting a fresh start. Be friendly and unintimidating. Do not insult or offend them with patronizing comments like, "How did you get in such a mess?" or "Why in the world did you do THAT?
Remember that you are buying their home, and you need them to like you and want to sell you their home. You must show them how your offer is a win/win proposition. If they are not ready to sell now, discuss all their options with them. Keep the door open for future discussions. You never know when someone in foreclosure will decide it's time to sell the home.
But when they do decide, you want them to talk to YOU and no one else. This relationship must be established early on, starting with your first contact and reinforced through your repeated follow-up visits. The number one reason investors do not succeed in buying pre-foreclosure houses is that they simply do not follow up with the motivated sellers! Do not make this mistake.
How much should I pay?
Once the homeowners agree to sell you their home, you will determine the most you can afford to pay for the property before you meet with the sellers. Make sure you have enough cash available to make up their back payments (and stop the foreclosure), plus give them some "walking money" to close the transaction and move them out.
The amount of cash you give the seller is totally based on your negotiation skills. Obviously less is better from your standpoint, but not too low. Getting rejected outright and NOT buying the property at all isn't good either.
Make sure your offer is contingent upon and subject to all existing liens, loans, etc. as listed in your purchase agreement and that it is the entire list of all debts. Make certain that the terms for repayment are accurate and that you have the right to approve or disapprove the current status of all loans and of title.
Successful foreclosure purchases must conform to your state foreclosure laws. Make sure you read up and become familiar with these state laws in advance of writing your offer. Normal purchases include full title insurance provided by the seller, as well as the buyers' complete inspection of the property's physical condition.
The best part of buying directly from the owner is that you have an exclusive deal. Contrary to popular belief, there is rarely any competition when you buy a home in foreclosure directly from the owner. Once a motivated seller decides to sell his property, he just wants to get it over with quickly and easily.
The idea of the seller calling many investors to get the best offer just isn't reality. Once you are in--YOU'RE IN! There won't be the "pack of bidders" that you will encounter if you wait for the foreclosure auction.
2. Foreclosure auctions
A few weeks (or in some areas a few months) before the auction, the lenders representative (Trustee or Attorney) files an Auction Notice (Trustee's Sale or Sheriff's Auction) of intent to sell the property to the highest bidder at a public sale.
The opening bid is set by the lender and is based on the full amount owed on the loan (including principal, interest, late charges, penalties, and foreclosure fees allowed by law) as of the date set for the auction.
Often the auction is delayed by mutual consent of the lender and the borrower, and a new auction date is scheduled. Make sure you check with the lender's representative the morning of the auction to confirm that it is still scheduled and to confirm the amount of the minimum opening bid.
Before you attend any foreclosure auction, you'll need to do a ton of research. Since these purchases are "as is" with no warranties given, no title insurance provided, and in most cases (varies state by state) you need all cash (in the form of certified funds), you really know very little about what you are about to bid on.
You must do a complete title search to examine the state of title and to determine what position you are bidding on at the auction. You can do this yourself (expect no help from the county clerks), or you can hire someone to do it for you.
A reputable title officer charges $300 to $400 for each preliminary title report they complete (these are NOT the same as a "property profile," which is FREE and worthless to you). This can get very costly, especially if you decide NOT to buy a few houses.
Most professional foreclosure auction bidders are also very good title researchers, and they have learned from another professional how to do this very tedious task.
Why do I need title information?
If you are planning to bid at a foreclosure auction for a "first mortgage," most junior liens will be wiped out at the auction, and you will not be responsible for them. This is great news if the owner in foreclosure had a ton of loans and, therefore, not enough equity for you to be able to purchase from him directly. Now you have a chance to buy the house for less money at the auction!
BUT some liens are NOT wiped out, such as Property Tax Liens and any Federal Tax Liens (plus other exceptions that cannot be described here).
This is also important information for you as the bidder, isn't it? What if you are planning to bid at a foreclosure auction, and you thought that opening bid of $50,000 sounded GREAT on a $200,000 house? You may be gravely mistaken.
Your $50,000 winning bid, could be for the second mortgage. The winning bidder at this auction pays the $50,000 cash and automatically assumes the debt of all senior liens on the property. What if the first mortgage on this house was $200,000? OOPS! You just paid $250,000 for a house worth $200,000. OUCH!
You will also need to inspect the property to determine the amount of repairs needed. If you are buying from the owner directly, you are invited inside and can easily do your inspections. But if the owner losing his home at the auction is hostile and won't talk to you, are you prepared to peek inside windows and hope for the best? What if the house is totally wrecked when you finally buy it?
Finally, you can expect competition at the foreclosure auctions. Anyone with money who is afraid of or not good at talking to owners in default will go to the auctions. Often a crowd of people may bid up the same property. In hot real estate markets, investors will pay more for houses at auctions than I would. (My maximum is 70% of market value).
3. REOs: Real Estate Owned by the lender
These are properties that went to sale at foreclosure auctions but nobody wanted. Most likely the minimum bids exceeded what a savvy investor would pay. This is the way lenders take ownership of defaulted properties, and these properties are known as REOs. The lender no longer has a bad loan to collect on; they now have a non-performing asset that they must sell.
In hot real estate markets, REO lenders simply fix up the property, list it with a Realtor, and sell it to a home buyer for full market value. The REO lenders have essentially become our competition. But once they start getting more and more properties back and can't keep up with the fix-up for resale process, they will start selling their properties "as is" for a discount again.
When will that happen? It's hard to say. But I can say this:-- it is not happening now, and I would recommend you NOT work REO leads at this time. REO lenders currently are NOT motivated sellers. They will not be motivated sellers until they have a ton of bad loans and a large REO inventory, which they don't have at this time.
If you found an REO property in your area, and it is not in the MLS. (Multiple Listing System of agents), contact the lender directly by phone. Ask for the head of the REO Department or request the name of the actual REO asset manager handling this property.
Ask the asset manager if the bank is selling the property "as is" and if they'll discount for an "all cash" offer. If you get a YES, then that's great! Continue to pursue the property and line up your money (lender or equity partner). If you've structured the deal so you do not exceed 70% of the market value (total of purchase price and all repairs), you'll have no problem finding money partners.
Which way is the BEST way for you to buy a foreclosure? If you ask me, my preference in today's market is buying from the pre-foreclosure owner. As the market changes, so will my preference. Which is best for you? That's hard to say, but hopefully now you know why a "quick answer" just wouldn't work.
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Real Estate Foreclosures: Four Tips for Investing
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Tip one: Banks do not want to foreclose on real estate
I've seen a lot of investors miss out on huge profits because they just don't understand how far banks will go NOT to take back a property. Banks don't want to own real estate. Banks don't want to have bad loans on their books. All they want is people to pay them on time and take care of the house.
When you understand this, you recognize how much power you have when negotiating with lenders to find creative solutions to help sellers solve their problems. The key is to COMMUNICATE with the lender about what is going on and what you need to make this work for their best interest, which is having the loan brought current.
Many times I'll do a three-way call with the seller and the lender. I'll coach the seller to introduce me to the lender as a, "friend who knows more about this real estate thing than I do and who is helping me to understand what exactly is going on and how I can make sure you get your money."
Then I take over and find out the specific details and exact status of the loan. Many times I negotiate a payment plan, known as a forbearance agreement, with the lender right there on the phone.
One word of caution, don't tell the lenders that you are buying the property because they might not like you buying the property without paying off or assuming the loan. If they ask any questions about who you are, which they almost never will, simply repeat that you are a friend of the sellers who is trying to help them out.
Tip two: Foreclosure tidbits investors don't know
What happens if the lender doesn't get all its money out of the foreclosure sale? Many homeowners think that once the bank foreclosure sale has happened, all their worries are over.
This may not be true. In many states the lender can get a "deficiency judgement" from the court which means the borrower (homeowner) owes the lender any money that the lender LOST from the whole process.
Does the lender make money in foreclosure sales?
No, they're not allowed to make a profit. Any money made in excess of the amount owed the lender, including the foreclosure costs, will go to the borrower. The reality is that rarely will the borrower get anything for his or her equity in a foreclosure sale.
Lenders can get money for fees like:
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Late penalties
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Accrued interest
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Attorney´s fees
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Court costs
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Filing fees
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Title work fees
Tip three: Other ways property owners default
While we usually see property owners default on loans by not making the monthly payments, there are other things home owners do that can trigger the foreclosure process.
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Homeowner fails to pay property taxes which creates a lien that jeopardizes the lender´s security
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Homeowner fails to pay a Home Owner Association fee
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Homeowner transfers title without getting the lender´s permission
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Homeowner does something to the property that diminishes it´s value
All of these things COULD trigger the lender to foreclose on the property, but rarely will they be the cause of the bank foreclosure. By far the most common reason for a lender to foreclose is non-payment by the borrower.
Tip four: Don't be afraid to knock on doors
One useful technique to find great deals is to literally knock on the doors of owners who are default.
Can we really mean just show up at their doorstep and knock on their door? Yes!
Let´s face it, out of the 50 other investors who have the Notice of Default or Lis Pendens information about the sellers in the early stages of foreclosure, 25 of them will pop a postcard or letter one time in the mail to them.
Five of them will go to the effort of tracking down the owners' phone number and giving them a phone call. And only one or two will actually face their fear and go knock on the seller´s door.
Now this is time consuming and takes a bit of finesse to make it pay off for you. The biggest clue that it is worth the time for a personal visit is if you reasonably expect there to be either:
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A lot of equity in the house; or
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The property is in an area where you are very interested in acquiring long-term keepers.
If one or the other (ideally both) of these criteria is not met, then give the sellers a call on the phone or plug them into your mailing sequence but don't waste your valuable time visiting them.
You might be thinking that the homeowners wouldn't want you to come to their door. In many cases they really are in desperate need of help.
What to say when you knock on the sellers' door
Here are two scripts of what to say when you're knocking on their doors cold:
Script One: This one works well if the sellers are still in pre-foreclosure OR if you're not quite ready to use the gutsier script below.
Knock, knock3;[Step back off the porch, turn sideways, assume a passive, harmless posture to put them at ease.]
Owner: "Yes?"
Investor: "Hi, (looking as harmless and Bambi-like as you can manage) my name is Jim and I'm an investor who is looking to buy another house in this neighborhood. I was wondering if you knew of anyone in the area who might be at all open to selling their house if they got a fair offer on it?"
Owner: "Well, actually I might want to sell my house."
Investor: "Oh, okay, but I've probably caught you right in the middle of something, huh?" Owner: "No, I was just making dinner. Now´s as good a time as any." | |
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IRS Definitions for "Real Estate Investors
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Unfortunately, real estate investors are not all created equal in the eyes of the IRS. If you´re an investor, there are four different types of real estate investor definitions that you will want to watch out for:
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Real Estate Investor
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Real Estate Dealer
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Real Estate Professional
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Real Estate Developer
For tax purposes: Two are good; two are not. And, like many things in life, being prepared for a bad thing might mean that you don´t have a problem at all.
Real estate dealer
If you are considered a real estate dealer, you have a trade or business, not an investment. This means that you will have to pay self-employment tax of 15.3%, just like any other business. But what is potentially worse, you will also have lost the ability to take the installment method for tax.
This means that if you sell a property "over time" using any form of seller financing, you cannot pay tax on the gain as you receive payment. Instead, you have to pay ALL of the tax on the gain on the property immediately, even though you might not have received any money yet.
How does the IRS determine dealer status?
The IRS determines real estate dealer status based on the "intent" of the taxpayer holding or buying the property. The characterization of gain or loss on the sale or exchange of real property turns on whether the property was held "primarily" for sale or investment. The Courts have come up with their top fifteen items that they look for in determining the status:
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Taxpayer´s purpose for acquiring, holding and selling the property
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Number, frequency and continuity of sales
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Duration of ownership
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Time and effort expended by the taxpayer in promoting sales
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Taxpayer´s use of brokers
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Extent of improvements and subdivision made to facilitate sales
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Ordinary business of the taxpayer
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Extent and value of the taxpayer´s real estate holdings
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Extent and nature of the transactions involved
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Amount of income from sales as compared with the taxpayer´s other sources of income
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Taxpayer´s desire to liquidate landholdings unexpectedly obtained
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Taxpayer´s overall reluctance to sell the property
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Amount of advertising
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Use of a business office for sales
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Taxpayer´s control over any sales representatives
Of these, the most important issue appears to be the number, frequency, and continuity of sales. In other words: If you sell a lot of property, you might be considered a dealer simply because that appears to be the type of real estate "investing" you do. It is also possible to be treated as a dealer on one property and an investor on another.
In this case, the IRS will look at the taxpayer´s intent with that particular property. For example, they will look for sales activities that show that property was held primarily for sale if they are attempting to prove dealer status. These activities would include advertising, "for sale" signs, a sales office, and employment of sales personnel.
Real estate dealer tax planning
If you are considered a real estate dealer, then the income you make will be subject to a self-employment tax. You might consider holding the real estate within a Limited Partnership (only the general partner would be subject to self-employment tax) or a corporate structure.
A real estate dealer is being treated as a business, so you need to plan for the appropriate business structure accordingly. If you have a concern that a portion of your real estate will be considered under "dealer status" and have no worries about another portion, a good strategy will be to have separate business structures for the two portions of your real estate portfolio. This will keep the issue contained.
The biggest problem occurs when you are deemed a real estate dealer and you carry back a note. If you are a dealer, you cannot defer your gain from the sale until you receive money. In this case, the best strategy is to be forearmed. Instead of doing an installment sale, consider doing a "rent-to-own" type of lease option program.
The difference between these two types of programs (installment sale and rent to own) is the constructive ownership. When does the sale occur? If it occurs later, after you are paid in full, then you have no problem with this particular tax issue. But you can´t do this after the fact. The proper agreements must be set up ahead of time.
Real estate professional
One of the biggest benefits to investing in real estate is the ability to offset the real estate paper losses (primarily caused by depreciation) against your other income. If you can qualify as a real estate professional, then 100% of your paper real estate losses can be used to offset your other income.
Otherwise, this real estate paper loss is limited to $25,000 if your income is under $100,000. The $25,000 phases out as your income exceeds $100,000 and is completed disallowed by the time you reach $150,000. The loss doesn´t actually go away. Instead, it is "suspended" to be allowed at the time that the property sells.
One way around the paper loss limitation is if you or your spouse (if filing jointly) can qualify as a real estate professional. The real estate professional status is based on hours that are performed in real estate functions. You must spend more time in real estate activities than in any other activity for which you are compensated.
However, if you are in a real estate activity type profession, such as a real estate agent, then you will qualify as long as you own 5% or more of the business that is paying you. Don´t let this confuse you if you are a real estate agent. You are most likely paid as an independent contractor. That independent contractor income IS your business.
However, if you are paid as an employee of a real estate agency and do not own a minimum of 5% of the company, then you will not qualify under this provision. First, you will need to understand what real estate activities actually are. A qualified real estate activity is any thing in which you "develop, redevelop, construct, reconstruct, acquire, convert, rent, operate, manage, lease, or sell" real estate.
Remember that the key is that you perform personal services in these activities, but you don't necessarily have to be the one performing the work. You can be supervising, meeting, planning--all of the activities that go into truly running a business.
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Real estate developer tax issues
Another issue for novice real estate investors to be aware of occurs when they develop property. Say, for example, you find a great piece of land and decide to develop and subdivide it.
Real Estate Developer by Mistake
Bob and Ruth found twenty acres with zoning that could easily be changed into that of a mobile home park. The twenty acres could be turned into sixty spaces that would rent quickly for an average rent of $200 per month. That meant a gross income of $12,000 per month.
There would be some maintenance, landscaping, and management costs. At the very high end these costs would be $3,000 per month. One of the spaces would be provided to an on-site manager, reducing the gross income by $200. They were looking at potential income of:
Gross rent: $11,800 Vacancy costs: ($1,800) Maintenance costs: ($3,000) Monthly gross: $7,000
The cost of the property was $200,000, and the owner would carry a note at 8% with 20% down. They estimated the improvements would cost $10,000/space, and they got tentative approval for a construction loan with 30% down. They had the necessary $40,000 for the down payment for the purchase and could liquidate some resources to get the $180,000 they needed for the construction loan.
They had always heard that real estate provided "paper" losses that could offset their other income, and so they didn't worry about the tax consequences of selling their stock. After all, they reasoned, they were spending the money on another business venture.
At tax time though, they discovered the tax truth of what they had done. The land was not depreciable. That meant that the $200,000 ($40,000 of it in cash) was all booked as an asset with no expense to offset it. The construction was considered as a land improvement and would be expensed or depreciated once it was completed.
So, at the end of the first tax year, they were 75% completed with the project. They had liquidated stock, which incurred capital gains tax, and had drained all of their resources to develop the property. They had spent $220,000, and none of it could be a write- off. Bob and Ruth were developers, much like someone building an apartment house, and none of their investment would be depreciated until it was put into service.
Additionally, Bob and Ruth discovered that the interest from the land note and the construction project was capitalized with the asset. It was not currently deductible and would instead be amortized and expensed over time. The money was flowing out, they were investing in a business, and none of it was deductible--yet. They had a horrible tax surprise the first year.
The key to determining whether you are a developer is whether you must perform work to put the property into service. The development might be subdivision, land improvement, or even rehabbing a property. You would be treated as a developer during the time you held the property before it was put in service. During this time you would not be able to take the depreciation deduction.
One more issue for some real estate developers is Uniform Capitalization rules. This is a very complicated and little understood area of tax law. In fact, many tax practitioners are unfamiliar with it.
Developer? Who, me?
Tom and Cecilia had a successful real estate investment and property management enterprise. They had a staff of four people who helped them with the ongoing maintenance and bookkeeping for their investments. They wanted to keep growing their business, but had reached a point where they simply couldn´t find the deals on more real estate investments.
So, they decided to build new properties. Tom had a contractor´s license and they already had the beginning of a staff to work with the sub-contractors he needed. They bought their first parcel and began construction on a large, multi-unit apartment house.
At tax time, though, they discovered that they couldn´t take a deduction for any of the payments on the land, the down payment, or the out-of-pocket expenses for construction. But, even worse, a large portion of the administrative expenses and salaries for their employees were now no longer deductible.
The construction of the apartment building made Tom and Cecilia subject to Uniform Capitalization on all of their administrative expenses, even those that used to be deductible through the rest of their real estate investment business.
Here is a form that we use at DKA (our CPA firm) to determine the real estate status for clients:
What type of real estate investor are you?
This questionnaire should be completed for each individual property. The status (real estate dealer/developer/investor) is determined on a property-by-property level. Generally, you want the investor status on property as it avoids the self-employment tax and accelerates tax due on properties sold with a note of the dealer and the Uniform Capitalization requirements of the developer.
1a. What was the intent when the property was purchased?
If the answer is that it was to be rented or otherwise held as a long-term investment, then ask the follow up question below; otherwise go to 2.
1b. How long was the property held before it was sold?
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If property is still owned or was held for at least a year prior to sale, this will generally qualify as a real estate investment. Go on to the next property.
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If the property is to be extensively rehabilitated, demolished, or developed prior to use or sale, go to 3 below.
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If the property was sold (even if that sale was done with a land sale contract, seller financing, or other form of carried back note) after being held less than one year, go to 2 below.
2. If the property was sold within one year, do you have evidence that the sale was a result of a change of plans?
A change of plans means that the owner started out with one intent, then changed. Typically, you want to show proof that an early sale was a change of plans; otherwise, you will have real estate dealer status.
A change of plans could be shown as a result of other financial issues of the owner--change in marital status, move, change in income or other expenses-- or as a result of unsuccessfully trying to rent it. If you can show evidence that the sale was done as a result of a change of plans, this property qualifies as a real estate investment.
Note that the gain would be subject to the short-term capital gains rate, not the long-term capital gains rate. Go on to the next property.
If the property is shown to have been sold with the initial intent at the time of purchase to sell, then the property will qualify under the dealer status. Go on to the next property.
3. If the property was purchased with the intent of extensive remodeling or rehabilitation, was the property first put into service as a real estate investment property?
If the property was initially rented for the same purpose as the ultimate use, such as by renting half of the units in an apartment building while you extensively remodel the other half, then you have an investment property with remodeling costs.
The property should be depreciated and the current expenses, such as mortgage interest and property tax can be expensed. Go to the next property.
If the property had a use that wasn´t the same as the development purpose, such as the rental as pasture for part of the land while a trailer park was being built, the property might still be subject to Uniform Capitalization. Review the magnitude of the development costs in relationship to the rental of the property and determine reasonableness of status. Go to the next property.
If the property was bought solely to be renovated, this property will be a developer property. Go to the next property. As you can see, real estate investing has its own terminology. The better you understand the terms, the better you can communicate with your bookkeeper and CPA.
There are some key questions your advisors will need to know such as when the purchase actually occurred, what the basis was, when a sale occurred, and how to account for the income and expense in between. Real estate investing might have gotten more creative, but the same basics of accounting, record keeping, and tax still apply.
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The Real Estate Professional Tax Loophole
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The Real Estate Professional status is a designation given by the IRS based on the number of hours that you work in real estate activities versus other activities. It doesn't mean that you have to become a real estate sales agent or broker. You don't need to drive around showing people houses or putting out "for sale" signs.
The Real Estate Professional designation means that you spend a certain amount of time in real estate activities. Now, that could include being a real estate agent. Or it could mean that you spend time locating, renovating, leasing, or otherwise developing your own real estate portfolio.
Real Estate Professional benefits
To understand the benefit of the Real Estate Professional status, we first need to discuss the tax benefits that come with real estate ownership. Real estate investing, defined here as holding property for rent or lease to others, is a great way to create a cash flow that isn't taxable.
That´s due to the "phantom expense" of depreciation. Depreciation is a non-cash deduction that lets you reduce the amount of taxable income. So, it´s very possible to create cash flow month after month and not pay tax on it.
In fact, you can generally have "paper losses" with real estate at the same time that you have cash flow. That´s the best of all worlds--cash in your pocket plus a phantom loss that offsets other income!
That´s great, as long as your income is $100,000 or less per year. In that case, you can take a real estate loss of $25,000 per year against other income. If you make over $150,000, you can't take any real estate loss. And, if you make somewhere between $100,000 and $150,000, the amount of allowed loss phases out.
Here´s the way around that! Qualify as a Real Estate Professional. If you can qualify for this designation, then you can take an unlimited amount of real estate paper loss against your other income, no matter how much you make or how much the real estate loss is.
At the end of this article is the Real Estate Professional "Test of Hours" that we use at my CPA firm to verify the status. This is a test you want to pass!
Real estate activities
To complete the Real Estate Professional test, you will need to allocate how you spend your time between regularly paid activities and real estate activities. A qualified real estate activity is any thing in which you "develop, redevelop, construct, reconstruct, acquire, convert, rent, operate, manage, lease, or sell" real estate.
Remember that the key is that you perform personal services in these activities, but you don't necessarily have to be the one performing the work. You can be supervising, meeting, planning--all of the activities that go into truly running a business.
Develop This would include meeting with engineers, architects, planners, equipment operators, construction personnel, drafters, financial professionals, accounting and legal professionals, etc. to discuss and implement development of property.
You could also be involved in actually performing some of the development work yourself, if you have such skills, or it could be time you spend hiring professionals, supervising their work, reviewing plans, and/or inspecting the work. This development could be anything from subdividing property, with no additional amenities added, to actual construction of real property.
Redevelop This would include meeting with engineers, architects, planners, equipment operators, construction personnel, drafters, financial professionals, accounting and legal professionals, etc. to discuss and implement demolition of structures and/or redevelopment of the property.
Again, you could be involved in actually performing some of the development work yourself, if you have such skills, or it could be time you spend hiring professionals, supervising their work, reviewing plans, and/or inspecting the work.
Construct As before, any meetings, planning, hiring, firing, supervision, or inspection of any phase of construction is considered performing this activity.
Reconstruct Just as with "construct," qualified activities under "reconstruct" are any ones which are necessary to this phase of building.
Acquire Acquiring a property has many phases--meeting with sales people, looking at a whole range of properties, preparing an offering, responding to counter-offers, arranging financing, meeting with insurance agents, inspections, and actually closing a property. You don't need to acquire a property to rack up a lot of hours in this area.
Convert Conversion of property is similar to redevelopment or reconstruction, but might have the additional time element of meeting with planning officials. All of that time counts toward your qualified real estate time.
Rent The time spent meeting with your property managers to establish rental criteria, as well as acting as renting agent yourself (including the showing, screening, advertising, etc.), will count as qualified real estate time.
Operate If you spend time as a property manager, or meet with your property manager, then you will spend significant time as the "operator" of real estate.
Manage Similar to "operation" of real estate, if you manage your property, its tenants, prospective buyers, etc., then you are involved in qualified real estate activity.
Lease The time spent meeting with your property managers to establish leasing criteria, as well as acting as renting agent yourself (including the showing, screening, advertising, etc.), will count as qualified real estate time.
Sell All of the activities involved in selling a property (getting ready for sale, setting up open houses, placing ads, meeting with real estate brokers and prospective buyers) count toward qualified real estate time.
What if you're considered a Real Estate Professional?
If, after taking the Real Estate Professional "Test of Hours," you discover that you really are a Real Estate Professional, there are still a few things you need to do.
We recommend that you keep good track of the hours you spend in real estate by keeping a paper diary or using a Personal Digital Assistant to record the hours. If you have another non-real estate occupation, we also recommend that you track those hours as well.
DKA Real Estate Professional "Test of Hours"
The Real Estate Professional status is unrelated to the issue of dealer, developer, or investor status of the property. This test is strictly a test of hours spent in real estate activities. Review the real estate activities list prior to completion of the following.
1. Does a company engaged in a real estate activity in which you own 5% or more of the company currently employ you?
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If the answer is yes, you are a Real Estate Professional.
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If the answer is no, continue with 2.
2. Do you work outside of the home?
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If the answer is no, then go to 4 below.
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If the answer is yes, go to 3 below.
3. Do you spend more hours in real estate activities on an annual basis than you do in your other business?
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If the answer is no, then you cannot qualify as a Real Estate Professional.
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If you're married and file a joint return, have your spouse complete this portion of the questionnaire.
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If the answer is yes, then go to 4 below.
4. Do you spend a minimum of 750 hours per year in real estate activities?
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If you answered yes and have no other profession, you are a Real Estate Professional.
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If you answered yes and passed the test of 3. above, you are a Real Estate Professional.
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If you answered no, you cannot be a Real Estate Professional.
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The Tax-Deferred 1031 Exchange
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This article is an overview of exchanging. Before you actually put one into motion, you should get a qualified attorney and/or CPA to complete the deal. The regulations sound complicated, but once you cut through the mumbo-jumbo, the basic requirements are pretty simple, but they must be followed to the letter.
There are three components to a tax-deferred IRC Section 1031 Exchange.
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Qualifying property
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Values
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Timing
Qualifying property
The actual definition in the Title 26 Section 1031 of the federal code says "No gain or loss shall be recognized on the exchange of property held for productive use in a trade or business or for investment if such property is exchanged solely for property of like kind which is to be held either for productive use in a trade or business or for investment."
The properties exchanged must be of the same general nature, characterized by being held for investment or use in a trade or business. That opens the door to a whole slew of possibilities, including trading for airplanes, artwork, etc., but for now let's keep it simple. Property such as inventories, stocks, bonds, and notes are not considered "like-kind," and are in fact specifically excluded. However they receive similar treatment under other sections of the code. When it comes to real estate, all property is "like kind" to other real estate. The exception is your residence. That is treated elsewhere in the code, and is not included in qualifying properties for Sect. 1031 purposes.
Values
The general rule for a fully deferred exchange is that the exchanger must trade equal or up in:
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Equity
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Debt
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Fair market value
That means you must trade for a property or properties that are equal or greater in value, your equity position must be equal or greater than in the relinquished property, and you must owe at least as much or more on the new property(s) as you did on the old. You can trade one property for multiple properties, or multiple properties for one property, as long as the aggregate values and debt are equal or greater.
Timing
There are two basic forms of tax-deferred exchanges. They are a simultaneous exchange, and a delayed exchange. There are multitudes of variations on these two types of exchanges, but they will all fall into one of the two categories.
The simultaneous exchange
The most basic type of exchange is the simultaneous exchange, also called an "In Lieu Exchange." In a simultaneous exchange, the Seller wants to sell Property X, for which she has agreed to accept Property Y "in lieu" of cash payment. If the Buyer already owns Property Y, then the two parties simultaneously transfer their respective properties, being careful to adhere to the value rules above. In the case of the Buyer not owning Property Y, then the Buyer must purchase Property Y and transfer it to the Seller simultaneously with the transfer of Property X to the Buyer. In order for the Seller to preserve the tax-deferred status of the transaction, she must not receive any cash or debt relief.
The delayed exchange
The other type of exchange is the delayed exchange, also known as the Starker exchange. The Starker exchange gets its name from the court case that established the legality of a delayed exchange, using what is known as a Qualified Intermediary (QI). Fees charged by a QI are fairly reasonable, $500 or less for the first leg of a deal, and less thereafter. In this type of transaction, the Seller closes the sale of her property, and escrows the proceeds of the sale with the QI. In no event can the Seller ever take possession of the proceeds, or the tax deferral status of the transaction will be disallowed. After closing the sale of her property, the Seller then has 45 days to identify in writing to the QI the property or properties to be exchanged for. The identified properties must be purchased within 180 days of the sale of the relinquished property.
Properties must be clearly and accurately identified in writing and MUST be delivered to the QI by midnight of the 45th day. Deletions or substitutions of properties made during the 45 days must also be in writing. There are NO circumstances that will allow for an extension of the identification period.
There are three rules governing the identification of multiple properties:
1. The Three Property Rule: The Three Property Rule indicates that you may identify up to three replacement properties regardless of their fair market value. It is not necessary to purchase all of the identified properties. Even if you intend to buy only one replacement property, it is advisable to identify one or two alternate properties in case the first property purchase falls through. For those who are planning to identify and purchase no more than three replacement properties, the following 200% and the 95% Rules will not apply.
2. The 200% Rule: The regulations permit the identification of more than three replacement properties but only under the following circumstances. The total fair market value of ALL of the identified properties must not exceed twice (200%) of the contract price of the property sold. Exceeding the 200% limit will void the exchange. However, there is one exception to this rule, which is:
3. The 95% Rule: If more than three properties have been identified, and their total fair market value exceeds 200% of the value of what was sold, the exchange may still be valid if 95 % of the total cost of all properties on the list are purchased. This means if there are properties costing $100,000 on your list, then you must purchase at least $95,000 of them.
None of the above-described rules are applicable if all of the acquisition properties are closed within 45 days of the close of your old property. It's easy to see that by planning to acquire multiple properties, avoiding the 200% Rule in particular could be advantageous. Wrapping up the exchange in 45 days may seem difficult, but adequate planning before the exchange begins can lead to a successful close within 45 days. If exchanging out of multiple properties, the first property that closes will begin the 45-day identification period.
Other variations
There are many variations on these basic structures, including scenarios where there can be a partial tax-deferred gain. For those types of situations you need to sit down with a qualified attorney or CPA that has knowledge about Section 1031 of the Internal Revenue Code. There is specific language that should be included in either sale or purchase contracts to put all parties on notice that one of the parties intends to treat the transaction under Section 1031. Again, this is a straightforward declaration of the intent of the party that wishes to exchange, and does not require any magic document, but the rules have to be followed.
Online resources
There is a lot of help information online for facilitating exchanges. Some of the sites I have seen and used are:
http://www.1031X.com
And the actual code can be found at: http://uscode.house.gov/usc.htm (search for Title 26 Section 1031)
There is also a firm that several people whose advice I trust and value have recommended to me as a very good company to use as a Qualifying Intermediary. I have not used them personally, but understand that their services are professional, reasonably priced, and most importantly, accurate. That company is Asset Preservation, Inc., and can be contacted at http://www.apiexchange.com/
Avoiding the tax bite
You will find that there is a whole world of new terminology used in structuring exchanges. Don't be intimidated by the terms, just ask what they mean when someone throws one at you. I have found that in many cases people will come up with catchy phrases and terms just to further mystify the process. It isn't necessary, and those professionals that are worth their salt will bend over backward to make the deals understandable.
Once you have a basic understanding of how a 1031 exchange works, you can start thinking about your own situation, where you want to go, and how 1031 may help you get there without paying the tax bite that accompanies the sale of low basis real estate.
I hope that this has been specific enough without being overwhelming. It is a difficult subject to write simply about and still maintain accuracy. Most importantly though, DO NOT rely on my opinion alone. Get a qualified attorney and/or CPA to review your situation before committing to any action.
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Reduce Your Taxes: Contribute More Than $2,000 to Your Real Estate IRA
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You can contribute more than $2,000 to an IRA
Speaking across the country to thousands of real estate investors each year, we always love hearing how excited these investors become when they learn that they are able to combine their present investment strategy, (lease options, rehabs, foreclosures, rentals, raw land, notes etc.) with the incredible forces that IRAs offer.
They love the fact that they are able to choose how and where to invest their retirement savings in the ways they already know and understand. What really astounds them is the realization of how much faster their money is able to compound without the eroding factor of taxes.
One of the most frequently asked questions we hear is: "Is there any way that can I contribute more than $2,000 to into a truly self-directed IRA?" Our first response is: "How much would you like to put into an IRA this year? $5,000, $10,000, 20,000?"
These are all possible options. At this point, they usually perk up and ask, "How is that possible? I have never heard of that before." This response is not unusual since most IRA Custodians don't bother spending the time to explain the merits of both the SIMPLE and the SEP IRA.
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Plan |
Employer Contribution |
Employee Contribution |
Maximum Total Contribution |
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SEP |
15% Up To $25,500 |
N/A |
$25,500 (2000) |
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SIMPLE |
3% Match Up To $6,500 |
Up To $6,500 |
$12,500 |
Real estate investors should realize that they are eligible to take full advantage of small business retirement plans created by the government.
These plans are as easy to create as Traditional or Roth IRAs. No matter what hat you wear, be it a sole proprietor, partner, owner of an incorporated or unincorporated business, consultant or independent contractor, you are eligible for either a SIMPLE or an SEP IRA. The only question is, which plan is right for you?
Which plan is best for you?
Now that we have established even a single real estate investor qualifies for either of these plans, let's discuss the basic characteristics, so that you can determine which one is right for you.
When we speak of annual compensation, we are generally referring to total wages for employees or earned income for those self employed. If you receive only rental income (passive income), you will need to pay yourself a salary (earned income) for managing your properties.
In many instances real estate investors will wear two hats as it pertain to SEP and SIMPLE retirement plans: that of employee and employer.
In this case, both contributions (employer & employee) go directly to the investor's IRA! Also keep in mind that in addition to these plans, real estate investors can have an Individual IRA (Traditional or Roth)..
The SIMPLE IRA (Savings Incentive Match Plan for Employees)
* Business Eligibility: Generally, small businesses (again this includes self employed individuals, including sole proprietors, partnerships and corporations) that employ 100 or fewer employees are eligible.
* Employee Eligibility: The employee must have earned at least $5,000 in the preceding year and reasonably expect to earn at least $5,000 for the current year. These requirements are the maximum and can be reduced by the employer.
* Employee Contributions: Employees can contribute 100% of their annual compensation up to $6,500 a year.
* Employer Contributions: Employers match dollar for dollar up to 1 , 2, or 3% of the employee's annual compensation (max. $6,500 indexed). The employer is only responsible for employees who have contributed.
* Deductions: Employees may deduct their contributions from personal taxable income, while the employer may deduct the matching amount from the business' taxable income. If you are self-employed, you receive both of these deductions!
We often recommend that investors who receive less than $50,000 in annual compensation should choose the SIMPLE. This will allow them to contribute the maximum amount to their IRA.
Another favorable point about this plan is that if you have employees, other than your family, you as the employer are only responsible to match if the employee contributes funds first. In addition to these benefits, after two years you may be able to convert your SIMPLE IRA to a Roth!
The SEP IRA (Simplified Employee Pension Plan)
* Business Eligibility: Any employer, whether a corporation, partnership, or self employed individual, may establish the plan, even if there is only one employee.
* Employee Eligibility: Employees must be 21 years of age, worked for your business during any three of the past five years, and earned the yearly minimum required compensation ($450 for 2000 adjusted annually).
* Employer Contribution: Each year an employer may contribute up to 15% (approximately 13% for those self-employed) of each eligible employee's annual compensation (max. $25,500). The employer does not have to contribute each year.
* Deductions: Employers may deduct every qualified dollar they contribute from their taxable income!
The SEP allows an individual to contribute the most to an IRA (up to $25,500). Remember, an employer must contribute the same percentage for all eligible employees. However, an employer may choose each year whether to contribute to this plan and is under no requirement to offer it each year.
Supercharge your Roth IRA
One feature of both the SIMPLE and SEP IRA that most investors are not aware of is this: Contributions made to both of these IRAs can be converted to a Roth IRA! Imagine being able to enjoy the contribution limits of a SIMPLE or SEP IRA and the tax-free status of a Roth IRA.
It must be noted that a SEP IRA can be immediately converted while a SIMPLE IRA must wait two years from the date of the first contribution to be eligible for a Roth conversion.
Remember that when you make a Roth conversion this is a taxable event. The amount you decide to convert will be added to your annual income for that year. But don't forget you will receive a deduction for contributions to a SEP or SIMPLE IRA, making the conversion practically a wash!
How these plans can work for a real estate investor
A SIMPLE Example: John Smith and his wife each earn $20,000 a year from their real estate business where they are the only employees. The Smiths believe they pay too much in taxes, and they would like to reduce their taxable income as well as contribute the maximum to an IRA.
They plan to make real estate investments similar to those of their business, while compounding their profits tax-deferred. In order to optimize their IRA contributions, they both decide to open a Traditional and SIMPLE IRA.
By each contributing $2,000 to their Traditional IRAs, the Smiths are able to deduct $4,000 from their taxable income. They then contribute $6,000 each to their SIMPLE IRAs as employees of their real estate company.
As employers they have decided that they will match 3% of each employees annual compensation ($20,000 X 3% = $600 each.
In this instance the Smiths must wear two hats, one as employee and the other as employer. Because of their participation in these two IRAs, the Smiths have been able to:
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Contribute $17,200 ($4,000 + $12000 + $1200) to their IRAs this year, which can be used to invest in real estate.
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Lower their taxable income from $40,000 to $22,800!
A SEP Example:
Mrs. Jones owns her own mortgage company and earns $100,000 per year in W-2 income. She is the only eligible employee. Mrs. Jones agrees with the Smiths and feels that she is paying excessive amounts in tax each year.
While she has heard from Mr. and Mrs. Smith how good a SIMPLE plan is, she realizes that the SEP plan would be even better for her.
With the SEP, Mrs. Jones, as the employer, has chosen to contribute 15% of her salary. Instead of the $6,000 contribution limit for the SIMPLE plan, Mrs. Jones will be able to contribute $15,000 to her SEP.
With the $2,000 she has contributed to her Roth IRA, she has now been able to contribute $17,000 to her IRAs and reduce her company's taxable income by $15,000!
As with the SIMPLE plan it should be noted that if Mrs. Jones has a husband and children, they may participate in the SEP plan and enjoy all the benefits she will as long as they are employees of the company.
Once the plans have been established, a SIMPLE and SEP IRA follow the same guidelines as a Traditional IRA. The only exception is that a SIMPLE IRA must stay as a SIMPLE for two years before it can be converted to a Roth IRA.
As in any self-directed IRA, investors have the option of using funds from their SIMPLE or SEP IRA to invest in all forms of real estate and notes, as well as any other IRS approved investments. So start enjoying the benefits of tax-deferred, compounded growth today!
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What Makes a Tax Free Deal a Real Deal?
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Over the last year, a number of interesting questions have come up about tax free real estate deals. Among them are the question about doing too many of them in your Keogh or IRA (also known as the Dealer issue); what is the difference regarding transactions in a Roth IRA versus a traditional one; and the ubiquitous Unrelated Business Income Tax question.
The answers are straightforward
You can do as many real estate or other transactions as you wish without being a dealer. The dealer issue, according to subject matter experts, such as prominent ERISA and IRA attorneys, and the IRS has nothing to do with tax deferred, free or qualified plans, as these transactions occur in a tax free environment. The best analogy, is if you traded to often in the stock market, would you have to be licensed as a stock broker? No.
Doing a transaction in a Roth IRA and a traditional IRA is significant in a number of ways:
All funds, including profits in a Roth are tax free forever. You can withdraw the basis (the amount you paid taxes on) from your Roth at any time. You cannot do this in a traditional IRA setting. You may begin distributions (withdrawals) from either plan type at 59 ½ , but you must begin distributions in the year following turning 70 ½ from a traditional IRA. Roth IRAs have no such age requirements. Yes, you can take withdrawals in kind.
Unrelated business income tax
For Real Estate, if you have a debt financed property you are subject to Unrelated Business Income (UBI) tax in an IRA, but not in a qualified plan, such as a Keogh. You get to take depreciation and other expenses into account in calculating UBI, and are subject to tax if you have over $1,000 profit. If you are out of debt financing for a year prior to sale, you are not subject to UBI. Don't leverage a property you plan to sell within a year; leverage another one instead.
The real deal remains in Roth IRAs.
We just did a deal where we bought two houses as fixers in a Roth. Using $63,000 in the Roth of basis money (money on which tax had already been paid), we bought two fixers at $31,000 and $32,000. After two weeks, the first is sold at $56,000, and the second at $48,000, for a total profit of $51,000. The total account value was $114,000.
On to the next deal, we used $50,000 for another fixer, which we flipped for $75,000. The profit of $25,000 boosted our Roth up to $139,000 which had started with less than half that amount in four weeks time. Needing some cash for incidentals is easy in this case. We pulled out $30,000 from the Roth. The $30,000 was not taxed, as it was part of the basis of $63,000. This leaves us with a basis of $33,000, and a total asset value of $109,000. So we have a lot to make more deals with, and we could still pull another $33,000 out without tax consequences, before age 59 ½.
We can do these deals all day long!
In-service withdrawals
If you have a profit sharing plan, and own your own business look into the in-service withdrawal provision. You can take assets from your Keogh plan and roll them to an IRA even when you are still making profit sharing contributions. You can pay tax on that IRA and convert it to a Roth (if you qualify). Why is this a good deal? If you have real estate in your Keogh, you roll it over at its last appraised value, or at the value you just bought it at (See the Roth item above). You pay tax on that value to convert to a Roth. Some quick math will show you how profitable this can be for you.
These are but a few of the creative ways to do real estate deals. When it comes to using IRAs and Qualified Plans, your options increase what you may already be doing in your daily life as a real estate professional or as an investor. The IRS code can be a great ally in your present as well as your future. It is just a matter of how you use it. Please just don't ask anyone to look the other way when you contemplate a prohibited or self dealing transaction. You can do to many things safely and legally. Remember if it sounds to good to be true, it is to good to be true.
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Self Dealing in Tax Free and Tax Deferred IRA's
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The most frequently asked questions relate to doing transactions which are prohibited or self dealing. What is Self Dealing? Remarkably, the tax code makes some sense in this area.
The concept of self dealing within the context of an IRA is easy: Your retirement plan is supposed to benefit when you retire, not before then. Self dealing transactions are outlined in the code as prohibited transaction, but clear examples of what is not prohibited are scarce.
To begin, we will explore what "you," "Individual Retirement Account," and "Disqualified Persons" are, and then what you can and can't do, or simply what "prohibited transactions" are.
Who is "you" and who are "you" not?
You. What is most important about "you" is who you are not. Your are not the Individual Retirement Account. "You" establish a trust for your benefit in an Individual Retirement Arrangement through a legally permitted entity, such as a bank, savings association, or non-bank trustee.
An "Individual Retirement Account" is a type of arrangement that allows tax deferrals or permits tax-free accumulations of money. This account (IRA) is opened so that transactions you direct may be processed. Such transactions include contributions, purchases, sales, and distributions.
Contributions are those transactions in which you deposit money to your account based on the legal limits in accordance with your earned income.
Purchases are the acquisition of assets which you direct through the trustee or custodian of your IRA. You may never purchase an asset and then contribute them to your IRA. Only cash may be contributed as noted previously.
Sales are those transactions which you direct the trustee or custodian of your IRA to sell from your account. The proceeds of the sale may be in cash or other property. It remains in your account until the assets in your account are distributed.
Distributions are withdrawals from your account. You request those withdrawals, in cash or in kind, from the trustee or custodian to be made to you.
If you ask that these assets be paid or conveyed to a third party, it still counts as a withdrawal to you. Although not generally an issue with Roth IRAs, it is important for traditional IRAs, where distributions or withdrawals are taxable events.
As noted above "you" never "buy" an IRA. You always open an Individual Retirement Account. You then direct the purchase of an asset. This purchase is either through the opening an account process or by a separate direction. An Individual Retirement Account is also known as a Plan.
Now that you know that "you" and your IRA are different, and that your trustee or custodian acts on your behalf based on your direction, what can't "you" do? "You" and "disqualified persons" can't engage in prohibited transactions. Generally, a prohibited transaction is any improper use of your IRA (or annuity) by you or any disqualified person.
Disqualified persons
Disqualified persons include:
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a fiduciary;
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a person providing services to the plan;
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an owner, direct or indirect, of 50 percent or more of
1.) the combined voting power of all classes of stock entitled to vote or the total value of shares of all classes of stock of a corporation,
2.) the capital interest or the profits interest of a partnership,
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a member of the family (ascendants, descendants, but not siblings);
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a corporation, partnership, or trust or estate of which (or in which) 50 percent or more of the combined voting power of all classes of stock entitled to vote or the total value of shares of all classes of stock of such corporation, the capital interest or profits interest of such partnership, or the beneficial interest of such trust or estate, is owned directly or indirectly, or held by persons described above;
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an officer, director (or an individual having powers or responsibilities similar to those of officers or directors), a 10 percent or more shareholder, or a highly compensated employee (earning 10 percent or more of the yearly wages of an employer); a 10 percent or more (in capital or profits) partner or joint venturer of a person.
What is prohibited
So here's what's prohibited: Your plan may not, directly or indirectly, sell, exchange or lease any property with a you or disqualified person. This includes lending money or extending credit. Your plan can't furnish goods, services or facilities to you or a disqualified person. You or a disqualified person cannot transfer to each other, use or benefit from the asset in the plan.
An exemption
There is an exemption which applies: Any contract, or reasonable arrangement, made with a disqualified person for office space, or legal, accounting, or other services necessary for the establishment or operation of the plan, if no more than reasonable compensation is paid therefor.
The exemption may include servicing notes you have directed to be purchased and managing property you have directed to be purchased. It does not include leasing back property to yourself, or a disqualified person, acquired by your direction in a plan. You may not be compensated for rehab work that you or a disqualified person do to an asset in your plan.
You may do all of these things with any other person other than you or a disqualified person. You may find a person who does similar type of investments with their plan assets and arrange a mutually satisfactory deal to do what you mutually agree to. Some people use their siblings to do what may be prohibited otherwise.
In summary there are numerous methods, which do not violate the law, which you can use to meet your long term objectives, and get the most out of your plan. We encourage the complete understanding of the rules, and the benefits available to you.
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Real Estate 101: Five Big Mistakes Newbies Make
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Zillions of "newbie" investors are jumping on the bandwagon trying to make a profit after losing big in the stock market. I meet them all the time, and many are making big mistakes!
Mistake #1: Stock market mentality
You'd think after losing $7 trillion in the stock market, people would have learned! Nope, they are making the same mistake, which is assuming that what happened yesterday will happen tommorrow. Nine of ten new investors I meet say they are interested in real estate because they saw someone else make money from the rapid appreciation of the market over the last few years.
But, buying real estate solely for short-term appreciation is often a big gamble! If you buy real estate to hold for fifteen years or more, the chances are that you will come out on top. If you buy a property and flip it in within a year, you'll probably do fine, too. And, despite the risk, many people can intelligently time the "boom" of a local market (or subdivision within a market) and make a profit.
But, if you buy a rental property for full-market price with break even or negative cash flow, you'd better have a backup plan if the market doesn't keep going up. Investing is a lot like surfing; if you don't know how to ride the wave, you will drown!
So, should you refrain from investing if you think the market has peaked? Absolutely not! You can find bargain-priced properties in every market, even the hottest. You can find low-interest rate financing that will increase your cash flow, so if values drop, you still are covered.
You can plan short-term (six to twelve months) because markets rise and fall slowly. And, if you keep a cash reserve for your business, you won't sweat when the market tanks. You know that in the long run, real estate markets virtually always come back.
Mistake #2: Investing blind
You'd think after losing $7 trillion in the stock market people would have learned! Nope, they are making the same mistake--blindly buying real estate based on bogus advice or complete lack of education.
Real estate is one of the few investments in which risk is directly proportional to knowledge. True, it has a higher learning curve than investing in the stock market, but there's no proof that having knowledge of the stock market reduces risk (just ask your mutual fund manager).
I read a comment on a real estate discussion group on the Internet. In response to an inquiry as to whether a particular seminar or training program was worth the money, someone answered, "Why waste your money on that stuff? Just use your money as a down payment and learn as you go."
This is probably the worst advice you could ever give a beginner. Money for deals is easy to find if you can find good deals. But, you won't know what a good deal is without having first invested in your education!
The more knowledge of investing techniques, financing, acquisition, negotiating and, of course, your local marketplace, the less risky your investments will be. A bargain real estate purchase will generally always be a safe investment; a bargain stock purchase isn't. After all, who says the company you bought into will be in business next year?
Mistake #3: No cash reserves
Ask anyone in real estate long term (or any other business, for that matter), and they will tell you the two most important words for survival are: cash flow. Heck, even K-Mart failed to learn that valuable lesson!
In order to stay in real estate long term, you need cash reserves. Buying real estate nothing down is easy; handling negative cash flow, repairs, and other expenses in the meantime is the trick. In fact, if you can handle the bad times, you will always come out on top.
Lack of cash reserves puts unnecessary pressure on you to do substandard repairs, accept less than qualified tenants, and give into tenants' demands for fear of vacancy. When you have a sufficient cash reserve, you act rationally.
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You hold out for a higher sales price.
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You hold out for a qualified tenant.
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You leave properties vacant rather than accepting unqualified tenants.
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You call a tenant's bluff when they threaten to leave.
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You take care of necessary repairs and improvements on your properties.
It's a whole different ball game than operating from a lack of cash. Like I said, buying properties with no money down isn't hard; it's handling the cash flow. In other words, you can buy real estate without money, you just can't survive in business without cash reserves. Consider accumulating cash reserves before investing in rental properties.
Mistake #4: Being greedy
Many investors get started flipping properties to other investors, which is a good idea to generate cash reserves. However, you must be realistic about how much profit is in a deal.
If there is a potential for a $20,000 profit in a rehab project, you can't expect to make $10,000 flipping that property to a rehabber. A rehabber has a huge risk embarking in such a project and wants a large enough profit to justify the risk.
For example, if a house needs $10,000 in repairs, and the rehabber investor wants to make at least a $20,000 profit. If you find a deal with $20,000 in profit potential, how could you expect to get $10,000 for flipping the property if the rehab investor is only going to make $10,000?
You should be happy making $2,500 and moving on to the next deal. If you want to make more than $2,500 on such a deal, then you must find and negotiate a better bargain that has more profit potential.
Mistake #5: Treating real estate as anything OTHER than a business.
People are lured to real estate because of the quick buck it promises. Don't hold your breath--you won't get rich quick. An "overnight sensation" usually takes about five years. More than 90% of the people who take a real estate seminar quit after three months.
Why the high fallout rate? Lack of action and unrealistic expectations. Investing should be treated with the seriousness of a career. It takes months, even years for a business to cultivate customers and have a life of its own. You need to treat real estate like any other business.
Give yourself at least six months to see if real estate works for you. It may even take a year before you buy your first property. Maybe in the second year you will buy three or four properties. If you work hard at it and keep your eyes and ears open, you may even find your first deal in 30 days. You will not make money by talking or thinking about it; you must go out and take action.
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Frequently Asked "Short Sale" Questions
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Why do banks short sale?
Here are the most common reasons banks will agree to a short sale:
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The mortgage is in arrears or foreclosure.
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The property is in poor condition.
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The homeowner has hardships and cannot afford the payments.
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New homes in the area are being chosen over existing homes.
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The area or neighborhood has depreciated in value.
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The bank´s shareholders are concerned when there are too many defaulting loans on the books.
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Some banks are required to prove a loss each month3;Let´s help them out!
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Some banks are required to have an amount equal to or up to six times the retail value of each REO "on hand" ? ouch, that hurts!
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An REO is a liability, not asset. Too many liabilities will cause any business to go under if not dealt with quickly.
Can I short sale a nice property?
Absolutely! As you can see, banks short sale for many reasons other than the poor condition of the property.
What are the steps to a successful short sale?
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Find a property owner in distress.
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Put a deal together with the homeowner.
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Have the homeowner sign an authorization to release form.
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Fill out a sales contract for the amount you want to offer the bank and have the homeowner sign it.
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Call the Loss Mitigation department at the bank.
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Fax them your offer along with the following:
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Your cover letter explaining why you can´t offer full price.
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The sales contract.
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Justifying comps of the area.
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Pictures, if you have them.
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A net sheet or closing statement (a sheet that shows the bank exactly how much they will net after closing costs, taxes, etc. are paid).
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A hardship letter from the homeowner that mentions the dreaded word...bankruptcy.
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Estimated list and cost of repairs, using retail repair prices that the normal homeowner would pay for these items.
What happens to the homeowners credit?
When you negotiate a successful short sale, keep in mind that the agreed upon price is payment in full. However, the homeowners may still owe the difference between the mortgage balance and the discounted amount via a "deficiency judgment."
If granted, this judgment will affect the homeowners and their credit report just as any other judgment. You must get the bank to agree to accept "payment in full without pursuit of any deficiency judgment."
In addition, you need to explain to the homeowners that the discounted amount (the difference between the mortgage balance and the short sale) may be declared as income on their income tax return by means of a "1099."
The homeowners should speak with their accountant for advice. Since the homeowners have been in such duress and probably haven´t made much income, a 1099 may not adversely affect them.
I hope this sheds some light on short sales. As you know, nine out of ten deals have no equity. To be successful in this business, trends call for you to be a short sale expert.
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Do Homeowners Still Owe Money After a Foreclosure?
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Do the homeowners still owe the bank money after a real estate foreclosure? That is a good question. When you negotiate a successful short sale, keep in mind that the agreed upon price is payment in full.
However, the homeowners may still owe the difference between the mortgage balance and the discounted amount as a result a "deficiency judgment." If granted, this judgment will affect the homeowners and their credit report just as any other judgment.
You must get the bank to accept "payment in full without pursuit of any deficiency judgment." You need to explain to the homeowners that the discounted amount (the difference between the mortgage balance and the short sale) may be declared as income on their income tax return by means of a "1099."
Since the homeowners have been under such extreme duress and probably haven´t made much income, a 1099 may not adversely affect them. The homeowners can speak with an accountant for advice.
What is a 1099?
The 1099 is given to the homeowners as a result of income they've received. For example, if the bank is owed $100,000 and agrees to accept $65,000 on a short sale, the homeowners actually made $35,000 (the short sale amount) and can receive a 1099 for that amount.
You must explain this to your homeowners when discussing a short sale and advise them to speak with an accountant as to how a 1099 might affect them.
Typically, the homeowners are showing no income or have had limited income for quite some time. If this is the case, a 1099 will not affect them to the extent that they would refuse to go forward with the deal.
When we explain the results of the foreclosure sale and the 1099 to the homeowners, they never seem to care. They just want us to help them so they can start their lives fresh. Banks are so backed up with paper work, many times the homeowners get lost in red tape and never receive the promised 1099.
Deficiency judgment
The bank can seek a deficiency judgment for the shortage on the actual amount received versus the amount that was due. Using the example above, the judgment would be recorded against the homeowners for $35,000.
Likewise, the same judgment can be sought when the property sells at the courthouse for less than what is owed or after the REO department sells the property for less than the full amount.
When negotiating a short sale, you can require that the bank waive its right to a deficiency judgment. More often than not, the bank will because we have proven such a desperate hardship. Again, this is explained to the homeowners and left to them to decide whether to pursue the short sale.
Keep in mind that if their property does go to the foreclosure sale, the same result may occur. Why wouldn´t they be inclined to work with you now and receive some money?
If the bank does pursue a deficiency judgment, the homeowners may have to file bankruptcy at a later date to remove the judgment. Another option is to short sale the judgment amount at a later date.
We find that 99% of homeowners don´t care about the 1099 or deficiency judgment as long as they can move forward with their lives. Many times we give the homeowners enough cash to cover any tax implication they may incur.
Do the homeowners save that money for taxes? Probably not, but we give it to them, help them start over, and we can sleep soundly at night.
It´s important for you to know that the lender cannot pursue a deficiency judgment and issue a 1099. They can only do one or the other, not both. If the deficiency is waived as a condition to the short sale, the homeowners will receive a 1099.
If the judgment is not waived, we leave the decision up to the homeowners as to whether to pursue the deal. If given the choice, the lender will opt for the judgment over the 1099 because of the chance to possibly collect something at a later date.
It is important to remember as stated earlier, if there is no equity and the property goes to the sheriff´s sale, and the bank receives less than what was owed, the bank can pursue the judgment or issue the 1099.
Likewise, if the lender gets the property at the sheriff´s sale and sells it at a loss, they can then pursue the judgment or issue the 1099.
As you can see, the best option for the homeowners is to deal directly with you because you can help to avoid at least one of these consequences, help them start over, and possibly help them financially.
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Using Loss Mitigation for a Real Estate Short Sale
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It is virtually impossible to complete a successful real estate short sale without dealing with the loss mitigation department at the bank. So, how does one deal with loss mitigation successfully? We can shed some light on that.
If you are new to real estate investing and wondering what real estate short sales are: A short sale means getting the bank to accept less than what is owed as payment in full.
For example: You find a homeowner in distress who owes $100,000 on a property that is worth $100,000. What do you do? Most real estate investors walk away--unless they know how to use a short sale.
Using our short sale secrets, you get the bank to accept $55,000 as payment in full. You now have equity in a deal that had none. The homeowners are ecstatic, since they can move on with their lives, and the bank has a defaulted loan off its books. Real estate short sales are win/win for everyone.
Once you have your homeowner under control and your short sale package together, you are ready to deal with loss mitigation. When making the initial phone call to the bank, ask for the loss mitigation department. Some customer service reps may say that the bank does not have a loss mitigation department. Keep trying.
Ask if the bank has a work-out department, foreclosures department, short sale department, loan modification department, or reinstatement department. The reason we ask for different departments is many times a new person is working the customer service phone and may have no clue what you actually want. By using a term he is familiar with, you will eventually get to the right person.
You have loss mitigation on the phone; it´s time to get to work. This person will make or break your deal, so be very nice. Your initial conversation should go something like this:
"Hi, my name is [your name here], and I am calling on behalf of Bob and Sally Smith. I have an 'authorization to release information' form I'd like to fax to you. What is your fax number? Great, I'll send it right over."
Stay on the phone while the rep retrieves the form from the fax machine. The rep gets the authorization and returns.
"As you know Bob an Sally are in foreclosure. I recently met them, and they seem like sweet folks. When I found out about their dilemma, I said I'd try to help. They would like to sell their property and move on with their lives.
"I own several rentals in the area and am willing to purchase Bob's and Sally´s property. However, we have a big problem. I called a real estate agent friend of mine and asked her to run comps for me. Based on her comps and based on what I know about the area, Bob and Sally owe much more than their property is worth.
"As I said, I'm willing to help them out of foreclosure as well as helping you get a defaulted loan off your books, but I can't possibly pay the mortgage balance. Will you entertain some sort of short payoff or something along those lines? Great! What do you need from me?"
As you can see in our conversation, we do not come across as professional real estate investors out to make a killing on the bank's loss. We have much more success as a friend trying to help poor Bob and Sally. Use whatever approach makes you feel most comfortable but, don't lie to get the deal.
We did recently just meet Bob and Sally; we do have rentals; we do have a real estate agent friend; and we are willing to purchase Bob's and Sally´s property.
In your conversations with loss mitigation, be certain to refer to your distressed homeowners by name as often as possible. This makes them seem more real to the rep. We are trying to get a banker to make an emotional decision as well as a business one.
Once you build rapport with the loss mitigation rep, send your short sale package. We call our reps at least once a day to follow up. Always ask the reps how the day is going, how the weather is where they are, how the kids are, and so on. You want the rep to look forward to your calls, not dread them.
Find out who makes the actual decision, how long it typically takes, how long the rep can give you to close once your deal is accepted, etc. With a helpful attitude from you, your loss mitigation rep will push your deal through quickly.
Once your deal is accepted, get it in writing immediately. Find your buyer or arrange financing and get the deal closed. You don't want anything to happen between the acceptance and the closing to make you lose your deal.
Once the deal is closed, send the rep flowers or a gift basket and write a letter to the rep's boss. The rep will remember you and the next time you call about a short sale, the rep will be more than willing to help you again.
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Limited Liability Entities for Real Estate Investments
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After searching the market for the perfect piece of real estate, you have found property that will satisfy your needs and give you future opportunities. It is now time to be concerned about protecting yourself from the risks involved in property ownership.
One way to reduce such risks is to hold the property though a limited liability entity. By choosing the entity best suited to your specific situation, you will ensure that you have the flexibility and control that you need.
Although other limited liability entities are available, for the following reasons, the preferred entities for real estate investments are the limited liability company (LLC) and the limited partnership (LP).
Limited liability
As in any business transaction, one of your primary concerns in real estate investing should be your vulnerability. Owning property as an individual or in a general partnership creates unlimited liability. Tenants, guest, and, in some cases, trespassers may sue you for real or imagined grievances.
If they prevail, they may seek to use your bank account, home, and personal possessions to satisfy the court´s judgments. By using a LLC or LP for a real estate investment, you may be able to avoid personal liability for accidents that occur on the property.
Liability will be limited to the extent of the LLCs or LPs assets. If anything goes wrong on the property, you will appreciate the protection limited liability provides.
Beneficial management structure
Depending upon your specific situation, either a LLC or a LP may provide the management structure you need. A LLC provides a flexible structure that allows members to manage the entity or to elect a manager or a group of managers. All members of a LLC are provided limited liability. Additionally, many states allow one person to form a LLC.
LPs, however, require at least one general partner and one limited partner. The general partner is personally liable, but that may be handled by forming a corporation or LLC to serve as general partner, thus encapsulating any liability in a protected entity. When you use a LLC or LP for real estate investments, you may also benefit from estate planning and gifting opportunities available.
Reduced taxation on appreciated property
Although the structure of a corporation may be familiar, corporations are undesirable for real estate investments. If you hold real estate in a LLC or LP and later decide to sell the property to some third party, the tax benefits or using an LLC or LP will become apparent.
Unlike a corporation, LLCs, LPs, and Subchapter S corporations allow flow-through tax treatment. Profits are only taxed once, while they are taxed twice in a corporation. Appreciation on the property will result in less tax in an LLC, LP, or Subchapter S corporation than in a regular C corporation.
In addition, a LLC or LP will provide benefits if you transfer the property to your personal use or the personal use of one of your LP partners or LLC members. Unlike either a C corporation or a Subchapter S corporation, such a transfer to personal use would not result in tax consequences in a LLC or LP.
Although other entities may provide limited liability, the tax consequences of using other entities make an LLC or LP preferable.
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What's it Worth? Deriving Your Capitalization Rate
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How do you know what a commercial income property is worth? How do you know that you can get your desired return on your investment? Is there a way to calculate the maximum you can pay for an investment and still achieve your investment goals? This article will answer these questions and more about valuing income property.
Many real estate investors determine the value of an income property by using the capitalization rate, aka cap rate. It is probably the one most misused concept in real estate investing.
While brokers, sellers, and lenders are fond of quoting deals based on the cap rate, the way it is typically used, they really shortcut the true use of a valuable tool. A broker prices a property by taking the Net Operating Income (NOI), dividing it by the sales price, and voila!--there's the cap rate.
Example: Say the property has an NOI of $125,000, and the price is $1,125,000.
$125,000/ $1,125,000 = 11.1% cap rate
But what does that number tell you? Does it tell you what your return will be if you use financing? No. Does it take into account the different finance terms available to different investors? No. Then just what does it show?
What the cap rate above represents is merely the projected return for one year as if the property were bought with all cash. Not many of us buy property for all cash, so we have to break the deal down, usually by trial and error, to find the cash on cash return on our actual investment using leverage (debt).
Then we calculate the debt service, subtract it from the NOI, and calculate our return. If the debt terms, loan-to-value, or our return requirement change, then the whole calculation must be performed again. That's not exactly an efficient use of time or knowledge.
Brokers are fond of quoting a "market cap rate." This is an effort to legitimize an assumption, but it is flawed in its source. As a comparison tool it is almost impossible by any means to find out what other properties have sold for on the basis of the cap rate.
In order to correctly calculate a cap rate, and get an apples to apples comparison, you must know the correct income and expenses for the property, and that the calculations of each were done in the same way explained below.
This information is not part of any public record. The only way to access the information would be to contact a principal in the deal, and that just isn't done because the information is confidential.
A broker may have the details of several deals in the marketplace, and if there is enough information about enough deals, the information may rise to the level of a market cap rate. But few brokers are involved in enough deals in one market to have that much information.
So the conventional wisdom becomes a range of cap rates for property types, which may or may not apply to the property you are looking at, and certainly does not take into account your own return requirements. So what do you do when you've found a property that looks promising, and the broker tells you the cap rate is 11.1% and you better act fast? How do you know if it is worth pursuing?
For years, I immediately jumped in the car to take a look, and then started crunching numbers making assumption after assumption to arrive at some estimated value. The truth is I was guessing. I wasn't looking at the right numbers. There is a better way. It is not a magic bullet, but it is a powerful tool to use in gauging value.
What's it worth to you?
The real question is not how much I (or another investor, or even an appraiser) value a property at. Nor is it the value from a cap rate estimated in the market. It's the value at which YOU can attain YOUR investment goals, that is reflective of YOUR borrowing power, and gives you an intelligent starting point for the analysis.
I promise you if you learn how to do this, it will give you a leg up on 90% of the brokers and investors out there. Critical to this calculation is that the NOI is figured consistently with industry norms. The generally accepted definition of NOI is:
Gross Income - Operating Expenses = NOI
Please note that the operating expenses do not include debt service or the interest component of debt service. Obviously, the income and expenses must be verified, or all calculations that flow from them will be flawed. Verifying the income is usually easier than the expenses. Rent roll analysis and a contract contingency for tenant estoppel letters at closing can settle the income stream conclusively.
On the expense side, normal due diligence includes verifying with third party suppliers as many of the expenses as possible. But take care evaluating the operating expenses to uncover any anomalies that exist under the present ownership.
Owners often take a management fee that may or may not be market based; maintenance expenses may or may not include labor charges; items such as "office expense," "professional fees," or "auto expense" (I love that one myself!) may or may not be property specific.
In short, before accepting the NOI presented, understand what is behind the numbers. This is known as "normalizing" the numbers. You can also tweak the numbers to reflect the way you will own and manage the property.
No two investors will own and operate a property the same way. It is entirely possible for two investors to look at the same property and come up with two different NOIs, and two widely divergent values, and both are right.
That's why appraisers use comparable sales, replacement value, and the income approach as part of a three-pronged method in estimating value. They make the appraisal representative of the market conditions and the typical requirements of investors and lenders active in the market.
The third method, the income approach, is usually given the most weight. That method is also known as the "band of investment" method of estimating the present value of future cash flows. It addresses the return required on both equity and debt, and leads to what can be called a derived capitalization rate.
Deriving your cap rate
The best way to get an initial value (after I am reasonably certain that the NOI is accurate) is the derivative capitalization rate. It requires two more pieces of information: You have to know the terms of financing available to you and the return you want on your investment.
We then use these terms for both debt and equity to indicate the value at one precise point in time--the instance of when the operating numbers are calculated--to derive the cap rate that reflects those terms. (The value in future years is another discussion.) Deriving a cap rate works like a weighted average, using the known required terms of debt and equity capital.
The bank's return: the loan constant
Let's start with the finance piece. We need to know the terms of the financing available. From that we can develop the loan constant, also called a mortgage constant. The loan's constant, when multiplied by the loan amount, gives the payment needed to fully repay the debt over the specified amortization period.
IT IS NOT AN INTEREST RATE, but a derivative of a specific interest rate AND amortization period. When developing a derivative cap rate, one must use the constant since it encompasses amortization and rate, rather than just the rate.
Using just the interest rate would indicate an interest only payment and distort the overall capitalization process. The formula for developing a constant is:
Annual Debt Service/Loan Principal Amount = Loan Constant
You can use ANY principal amount for the calculation, then calculate the debt service and complete the formula. The constant will be the same for any loan amount. For example, say your bank says they will generally make an acquisition loan at a two points over prime, with twenty-year amortization, with a maximum loan amount of 75% of the lower of cost or value.
Say prime is at its current 4.5%. That means the loan will have a 6.5% interest rate. Using a payment calculator or loan chart, find the payment for those terms. On a loan for $10,000, the annual debt service required is $894.72. Divide that by $10,000 to find the constant.
894.72/10,000 = .08947
Using the terms given then, the loan constant for that loan would be .08947 (I usually round to four or five digits. Depending on the exactness desired, you can use as many as you like.)
The answer will be the same if you use $100,000 or any other number as the principal amount. (One hint: do not use a principal number with less than five digits, because the rounding will affect the outcome.)
You might note here that the mortgage constant is basically the lender's cap rate on his piece of the investment. Both the mortgage constant and "cash-on-cash" rates for equity are "cap" rates in their basic forms. A cap rate is any rate that capitalizes a single year's income into value (as opposed to a yield rate).
Your return: cash-on-cash return
The next step is to provide for the return on the equity. Start with the return you want on your money: Say the cash-on-cash return you are seeking is 20%. The cash-on-cash rate is also known variously as the equity dividend rate, equity cap rate, and cash-throw-off rate.
It represents the cap rate to the equity position, and to keep things simple we will call it the equity constant. If an investor puts in $30,000 and requires a 20% pre-tax return, then his annual cash in the pocket after paying the mortgage (but before income taxes) would have to be $6,000. In this case, the equity constant is .20.
Put it all together: Weighted average
Each of these cap rates is then weighted based on the loan-to-value ratio of each of the debt and equity positions to build the "overall cap rate." The formula looks like this:
(LTV debt ratio x mortgage constant) + (LTV equity ratio x equity constant) = derived cap rate
To finish the example, using the mortgage terms given above, and the desired 20% cash on cash return, the following would be the overall cap rate with a 75% loan-to-value on the debt component:
(.75 x 0.08947) + (.25 x 0.20) = .1171 or .0671 + .05 = .1171
To convert to a percentage, move the decimal two places, and therefore, under the stated conditions, the required cap rate for the property (income stream) is 11.71%. Using the normalized NOI figure, then the indicated value is calculated with this formula:
NOI/Cap Rate = Maximum Purchase Price
For the original deal above, the value would be calculated thusly to attain the desired return:
$125,000/11.71% = $1, 067,464
The asking price of $1,125,000 is very close to my target of $1,067,464. This is a deal that would definitely be worth hurrying to take a look at. Had the deal been priced at a 10% cap rate, or $1,250,000, then I might still take a run at it since my price is within ten to fifteen percent of the list price.
In a normal market, California aside, most sellers do not expect the property to sell for the asking price.
Not a magic bullet
Now please note that I said at the beginning that this is a starting point. It is not the end all and be all of valuation, nor should it be. That doesn't exist.
Many factors can influence the value of an income property both up and down. Some of the most important include deferred maintenance; security of the income stream (strength of the tenants and length of the leases); comparable sales in the area; general economic and market conditions; and local market conditions.
All these factors speak to the relative risk and effort involved in the continuance of the income stream, and must be investigated during the due diligence. As the instability or cost of any of those factors increases, I would increase the required return on my cash invested to offset the increased risk taken and the increased effort required to mitigate that risk.
Increase the required return and the cap rate changes, and so does the price. At this point you are writing your own paycheck. This is a powerful tool if understood and applied correctly. Play around with some alternative scenarios of returns, loan terms, rates, etc. and you will see the effect of changing different parts of deal structure.
You should now see why it is so critical to verify EXISTING income and expense BEFORE establishing value. This little exercise also shows why I harp all the time on no two investors coming up with the same value for the same property. DO NOT use this as a "magic bullet," and stop your analysis after the calculation.
I cannot stress enough the importance of performing thorough due diligence in commercial income properties. That alone is what determines the difference between being a true "investor," and the next "don't-wanter" seller.
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How to Create a Real Estate Cash Cow
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The dirty little "secret" of how bankers make money
Actually, it's not really a secret at all. In fact, bankers have been doing this for over a hundred years. Bankers make money by borrowing at low interest rates, then lending at higher interest rates. You deposit money in a savings account and they pay you 3% interest. They lend the same money back to you for home loans at 7% or more. The "spread" between the interest rate they pay and the interest rate they collect amounts to incredible profit!
Consider this simple example: You are shopping for rates to refinance your home loan. A lender quotes you 7% interest. On a $100,000 loan, the monthly payment (amortized over 30 years) is about $665 per month. However, at the last minute someone at the bank decides that the color of you underwear isn't right, so your interest rate changes to 7.25%. Your monthly payment will now be $682.
You aren't terribly upset, since, after all, what's $17 per month? What you don't realize is that the extra ¼ percent amounts to over $6,000 in additional interest!
An incredible opportunity in today's market
We are in a unique time in history: real estate prices are rising, yet interest rates are dropping. This means that those who can borrow at low interest rates and loan at higher interest rates are making a bundle! Combine the interest rate "spread" and the "buy low, sell high" principle and your profit grows exponentially.
Enter wraparound mortgages
Consider this example: Susie Seller buys a $90,000 house for a 10% discount ($81,000). She borrows $81,000 from First Federal Financial on a favorable 8% thirty-year loan. Her principal and interest payments are roughly $594 per month. She sells the property to Barney Buyer on an installment land contract for $100,000 (about 10% above market), taking $10,000 down and carrying the balance of $90,000 at 11% for thirty years. She does not pay off the underlying loan, but rather collects payments ($952/month) from Barney on a monthly basis and continues to make payments on the underlying loan.
She collects $358/month cash flow on the "spread" for 30 years!
This is a basic example of a "wraparound." The existing loan remains in place, and a new loan is created which wraps around the existing loan. Susie makes a profit on both an interest rate spread and a markup on the purchase price.
People with poor credit rarely question the price of the property (especially since they do not have to qualify for the loan). When the new buyer pays off the remaining balance, Susie pays off the underlying loan. In the meantime, she makes monthly cash flow on the spread between the interest she pays and the interest she collects. This cash flow is not offset by property management, maintenance and the aggravation of tenants. There are no vacancies, calls from tenants, city code violations, or other headaches to deal with. You can collect your monthly checks for thirty years, or you can sell your "wrap" note for cash!
You don't need good credit or huge sums of cash
If you don't have the ability to qualify for low interest rate loans, not to worry! You can use partners who have good credit and income. You can take over existing loans with low interest rates, then re-sell the properties on a "wrap." There are multiple ways to make a profit on "wraps," and you don't need credit, provable income or bundles of cash.
If you are looking for an alternative to landlording or a new way to create more cash flow, this is the ticket....
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Be a Smarter Negotiator: Five Basic Principles
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This article is excerpted in part from Mike Parson's book, "Secrets of Power Negotiating."
The way that you conduct yourself in a negotiation can dramatically effect the outcome. I've been teaching negotiating to business leaders throughout North America since 1982, and I've distilled this down to five essential principles. These principles are always at work for you and will help you smoothly get what you want:
Get the other side to commit first
Power Negotiators know that you're usually better off if you can get the other side to commit to a position first. Several reasons are obvious:
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Their first offer may be much better than you expected.
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It gives you information about them before you have to tell them anything.
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It enables you to bracket their proposal. If they state a price first, you can bracket them, so if you end up splitting the difference, you'll get what you want. If they can get you to commit first, they can then bracket your proposal. Then if you end up splitting the difference, they get what they wanted.
The less you know about the other side or the proposition that you're negotiating, the more important the principle of not going first becomes. If the Beatles' manager Brian Epstein had understood this principle he could have made the Fab Four millions more on their first movie. United Artists wanted to cash in on the popularity of the singing group but was reluctant to go out on a limb because United Artists didn't know how long the Beatles would stay popular. They could have been a fleeting success that fizzled out long before their movie hit the screens. So they planned it as an inexpensively made exploitation movie and budgeted only $300,000 to make it.
This was clearly not enough to pay the Beatles a high salary. So United Artists planned to offer the Beatles as much as 25 percent of the profits. The Beatles were such a worldwide sensation in 1963 that the producer was very reluctant to ask them to name their price first, but he had the courage to stay with the rule. He offered Epstein $25,000 up front and asked him what percentage of the profits he thought would be fair.
Brian Epstein didn't know the movie business and should have been smart enough to play Reluctant Buyer and use Good Guy/Bad Guy. He should have said, "I don't think they'd be interested in taking the time to make a movie, but if you'll give me your very best offer, I'll take it to them and see what I can do for you with them."
Instead, his ego wouldn't let him play dumb, so he assertively stated that they would have to get 7.5 percent of the profits or they wouldn't do it. This slight tactical error cost the group millions when the director Richard Lester, to every one's surprise, created a brilliantly humorous portrait of a day in the group's life that became a worldwide success.
If both sides have learned that they shouldn't go first, you can't sit there forever with both sides refusing to put a number on the table, but as a rule you should always find out what the other side wants to do first.
Act dumb, not smart
To Power Negotiators, smart is dumb and dumb is smart. When you are negotiating, you're better off acting as if you know less than everybody else does, not more. The dumber you act, the better off you are unless your apparent I.Q. sinks to a point where you lack any credibility.
There is a good reason for this. With a few rare exceptions, human beings tend to help people that they see as less intelligent or informed, rather than taking advantage of them. Of course there are a few ruthless people out there who will try to take advantage of weak people, but most people want to compete with people they see as brighter and help people they see as less bright. So the reason for acting dumb is that it diffuses the competitive spirit of the other side.
How can you fight with someone who is asking you to help them negotiate with you? How can you carry on any type of competitive banter with a person who says, "I don't know, what do you think?" Most people, when faced with this situation, feel sorry for the other person and go out of their way to help him or her.
Do you remember the TV show Columbo? Peter Falk played a detective who walked around in an old raincoat and a mental fog, chewing on an old cigar butt. He constantly wore an expression that suggested he had just misplaced something and couldn't remember what it was, let alone where he had left it. In fact, his success was directly attributable to how smart he was - by acting dumb. His demeanor was so disarming that the murderers came close to wanting him to solve his cases because he appeared to be so helpless.
The negotiators who let their egos take control of them and come across as a sharp, sophisticated negotiator commit to several things that work against them in a negotiation. These include being the following:
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A fast decision-maker who doesn't need time to think things over.
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Someone who would not have to check with anyone else before going ahead.
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Someone who doesn't have to consult with experts before committing.
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Someone who would never stoop to pleading for a concession.
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Someone who would never be overridden by a supervisor.
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Someone who doesn't have to keep extensive notes about the progress of the negotiation and refer to them frequently.
The Power Negotiator who understands the importance of acting dumb retains these options:
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Requesting time to think it over so that he or she can thoroughly think through the dangers of accepting or the opportunities that making additional demands might bring.
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Deferring a decision while he or she checks with a committee or board of directors.
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Asking for time to let legal or technical experts review the proposal.
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Pleading for additional concessions.
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Using Good Guy/Bad Guy to put pressure on the other side without confrontation.
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Taking time to think under the guise of reviewing notes about the negotiation.
I act dumb by asking for the definitions of words. If the other side says to me, "Roger, there are some ambiguities in this contract," I respond with, "Ambiguities . . .ambiguities . . . hmmm, you know I've heard that word before, but I'm not quite sure what it means. Would you mind explaining it to me?" Or I might say, "Do you mind going over those figures one more time? I know you've done it a couple of times already, but for some reason, I'm not getting it. Do you mind?"
This makes them think: What a klutz I've got on my hands this time. In this way, I lay to rest the competitive spirit that could have made a compromise very difficult for me to accomplish. Now the other side stops fighting me and starts trying to help me.
Be careful that you're not acting dumb in your area of expertise. If you're a heart surgeon, don't say, "I'm not sure if you need a triple by-pass or if a double by-pass will do." If you're an architect, don't say, "I don't know if this building will stand up or not."
Win-win negotiating depends on the willingness of each side to be truly empathetic to the other side's position. That's not going to happen if both sides continue to compete with each other. Power Negotiators know that acting dumb diffuses that competitive spirit and opens the door to win-win solutions.
Think in real money terms but talk funny money
There are all kinds of ways of describing the price of something. If you went to the Boeing Aircraft Company and asked them what it costs to fly a 747 coast to coast, they wouldn't tell you "Fifty-two thousand dollars." They would tell you eleven cents per passenger mile.
Salespeople call that breaking it down to the ridiculous. Haven't we all had a real estate salesperson say to us at one time or another, "Do you realize you're talking 35¢ a day here? You're not going to let 35¢ a day stand between you and your dream home are you?" It probably didn't occur to you that 35¢ a day over the 30-year life of a real estate mortgage is more than $7,000.
Power Negotiators think in real money terms.
When that supplier tells you about a 5¢ increase on an item, it may not seem important enough to spend much time on. Until you start thinking of how many of those items you buy during a year. Then you find that there's enough money sitting on the table to make it well worth your while to do some Power Negotiating.
I once dated a woman who had very expensive taste. One day she took me to a linen store in Newport Beach because she wanted us to buy a new set of sheets. They were beautiful sheets, but when I found out that they were $1,400, I was astonished and told the sales clerk that it was the kind of opulence that caused the peasants to storm the palace gates.
She calmly looked at me and said, "Sir, I don't think you understand. A fine set of sheets like this will last you at least 5 years, so you're really talking about only $280 a year." Then she whipped out a pocket calculator and frantically started punching in numbers. "That's only $5.38 a week. That's not much for what is probably the finest set of sheets in the world."
I said, "That's ridiculous." Without cracking a smile, she said, "I'm not through. With a fine set of sheets like this, you obviously would never sleep alone, so we're really talking only 38 cents per day, per person." Now that's really breaking it down to the ridiculous.
Here are some other examples of funny money:
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Interest rates expressed as a percentage rather than a dollar amount.
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The amount of the monthly payments being emphasized rather than the true cost of the item.
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Cost per brick, tile, or square foot rather than the total cost of materials.
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An hourly increase in pay per person rather than the annual cost of the increase to the company.
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Insurance premiums as a monthly amount rather than an annual cost.
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The price of land expressed as the monthly payment.
Businesses know that if you're not having to pull real money out of your purse or pocket, you're inclined to spend more. It's why casinos the world over have you convert your real money to gaming chips. It's why restaurants are happy to let you use a credit card although they have to pay a percentage to the credit card company.
When I worked for a department store chain, we were constantly pushing our clerks to sign up customers for one of our credit cards because we knew that credit card customers will spend more and they will also buy better quality merchandise than a cash customer. Our motivation wasn't entirely financial in pushing credit cards. We also knew that because credit card customers would buy better quality merchandise, it would satisfy them more, and they would be more pleased with their purchases.
So when you're negotiating, break the investment down to the ridiculous because it does sound like less money, but learn to think in real money terms. Don't let people use the Funny Money Gambit on you.
Concentrate on the issues
Power Negotiators know that they should always concentrate on the issues and not be distracted by the actions of the other negotiators. Have you ever watched tennis on television and seen a highly emotional star like John McEnroe jumping up and down at the other end of the court. You wonder to yourself, "How on Earth can anybody play tennis against somebody like that? It's such a game of concentration, it doesn't seem fair."
The answer is that good tennis players understand that only one thing affects the outcome of the game of tennis. That's the movement of the ball across the net. What the other player is doing doesn't affect the outcome of the game at all, as long as you know what the ball is doing. So in that way, tennis players learn to concentrate on the ball, not on the other person.
When you're negotiating, the ball is the movement of the goal concessions across the negotiating table. It's the only thing that affects the outcome of the game; but it's so easy to be thrown off by what the other people are doing, isn't it?
I remember once wanting to buy a large real estate project in Signal Hill, California that comprised eighteen four-unit buildings. I knew that I had to get the price far below the $1.8 million that the sellers were asking for the property, which was owned free and clear by a large group of real estate investors. A real estate agent had brought it to my attention, so I felt obligated to let him present the first offer, reserving the right to go back and negotiate directly with the sellers if he wasn't able to get my $1.2 million offer accepted.
The last thing in the world the agent wanted to do was present an offer at $1.2 million - $600,000 below the asking price - but finally I convinced him to try it and off he went to present the offer. By doing that, he made a tactical error. He shouldn't have gone to them; he should have had them come to him. You always have more control when you're negotiating in your power base than if you go to their power base.
He came back a few hours later, and I asked him, "How did it go?" "It was awful, just awful. I'm so embarrassed." He told me. "I got into this large conference room, and all of the principals had come in for the reading of the offer. They brought with them their attorney, their CPA, and their real estate broker. I was planning to do the silent close on them." (Which is to read the offer and then be quiet. The next person who talks loses in the negotiations.) "The problem was, there wasn't any silence. I got down to the $1.2 million and they said, "Wait a minute. You're coming in $600,000 low? We're insulted." Then they all got up and stormed out of the room.
I said, "Nothing else happened?" He said, "Well, a couple of the principals stopped in the doorway on their way out, and they said: "We're not gonna come down to a penny less than $1.5 million." It was just awful. Please don't ever ask me to present an offer that low again." I said, "Wait a minute. You mean to tell me that, in five minutes, you got them to come down $300,000, and you feel bad about the way the negotiations went?"
See how easy it is to be thrown off by what the other people are doing, rather than concentrating on the issues in a negotiation? It's inconceivable that a full-time professional negotiator, say an international negotiator, would walk out of negotiations because he doesn't think the other people are fair. He may walk out, but it's a specific negotiating tactic, not because he's upset.
Can you imagine a top arms negotiator showing up in the White House, and the President saying, "What are you doing here? I thought you were in Geneva negotiating with the Russians." "Well, yes, I was, Mr. President, but those guys are so unfair. You can't trust them and they never keep their commitments. I got so upset, I just walked out."
Power Negotiators don't do that. They concentrate on the issues, not on the personalities. You should always be thinking, "Where are we now, compared to where we were an hour ago or yesterday or last week?" Secretary of State Warren Christopher said, "It's okay to get upset when you're negotiating, as long as you're in control, and you're doing it as a specific negotiating tactic." It's when you're upset and out of control that you always lose.
That's why salespeople will have this happen to them. They lose an account. They take it into their sales manager, and they say, "Well, we lost this one. Don't waste any time trying to save it. I did everything I could. If anybody could have saved it, I would have saved it."
So, the sales manager says, "Well, just as a public relations gesture, let me give the other side a call anyway." The sales manager can hold it together, not necessarily because he's any brighter or sharper than the salesperson, but because he hasn't become emotionally involved with the people the way the salesperson has.
Don't do that. Learn to concentrate on the issues.
Always congratulate the other side
When you're through negotiating, you should always congratulate the other side. However poorly you think the other person may have done in the negotiations, congratulate them. Say, "Wow - did you do a fantastic job negotiating that. I realize that I didn't get as good a deal as I could have done, but frankly, it was worth it because I learned so much about negotiating. You were brilliant." You want the other person to feel that he or she won in the negotiations.
One of my clients is a large magazine publishing company that has me teach Power Negotiating to its sales force. When I was telling the salespeople how they should never gloat in a negotiation, the founder of the company jumped to his feet and said, "I want to tell you a story about that." Very agitated, he went on to tell the group, "My first magazine was about sailing, and I sold it to a huge New York magazine publisher. I flew up there to sign the final contract, and the moment I signed it and thanked them, they said to me, "If you'd have been a better negotiator, we would have paid you a lot more." That was 25 years ago and it still burns me up when I think about it today. I told them that if they had been better negotiators, I would have taken less."
Let me ask you something. If that magazine publisher wanted to buy another one of his magazines, would he start by raising the price on them? Of course he would. However harmless it may seem, be sensitive to how you're reacting to the deal. Never gloat and always congratulate.
When I published my first book on negotiating a newspaper reviewed it and took exception to my saying that you should always congratulate, saying that it was manipulative to congratulate the other side when you didn't really think that they had won.
I disagree. I look upon it as the ultimate in courtesy for the conqueror to congratulate the vanquished. When the British army and navy went down the Atlantic to recapture the Falkland Islands from the Argentineans, it was quite a rout. Within a few days, the Argentine navy lost most of its ships and the victory for the English was absolute. The evening after the Argentinean admiral surrendered, the English admiral invited him on board to dine with his officers and congratulated him on a splendid campaign.
Power Negotiators always want the other parties thinking that they won in the negotiations. It starts by asking for more than you expect to get. It continues through all of the other Gambits that are designed to service the perception that they're winning. It ends with congratulating the other side.
If you let these five principles guide your conduct when you're negotiating, they will serve you well and help you become a Power Negotiator.
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Never Say "Yes" to the First Offer
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This article is excerpted in part from Mike Parson's book, "Secrets of Power Negotiating."
Power Negotiators know that you should never say "Yes" to the first offer (or counter-offer) because it automatically triggers two thoughts in the other person's mind.
Let's say that you're thinking of buying a second car. The people down the street have one for sale, and they're asking $10,000. That is such a terrific price on the perfect car for you that you can't wait to get down there and snap it up before somebody else beats you to it. On the way there you start thinking that it would be a mistake to offer them what they're asking, so you decide to make a super low offer of $8,000 just to see what their reaction is.
You show up at their house, look the car over, take it for a short test drive, and then say to the owners, "It's not what I'm looking for, but I'll give you $8,000." You're waiting for them to explode with rage at such a low offer, but what actually happens is that the husband looks at the wife and says, "What do you think, dear?" The wife says, "Let's go ahead and get rid of it."
Does this exchange make you jump for joy? Does it leave you thinking, "Wow, I can't believe what a deal I got. I couldn't have gotten it for a penny less"? I don't think so. I think you're probably thinking:
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I could have done better.
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Something must be wrong.
In the thousands of seminars that I've conducted over the years, I've posed a situation like this to audiences and can't recall getting anything other than these two responses. Sometimes people reverse them, but usually the response is automatic, "I could have done better," and "Something must be wrong."
Let's look at each of these responses separately.
First reaction: I could have done better.
The interesting thing about this is that it doesn't have a thing to do with the price. It has to do only with the way the other person reacts to the proposal. What if you'd offered $7,000 for the car, or $6,000, and they told you right away that they'd take it? Wouldn't you still think you could have done better?
Several years ago, I bought 100 acres of land in Eatonville, Washington, a beautiful little town just west of Mount Rainier. The seller was asking $185,000 for the land. I analyzed the property and decided that if I could get it for $150,000, it would be a terrific buy. So I bracketed that price and asked the real estate agent to present an offer to the seller at $115,000.
I went back to my home in La Habra Heights, California leaving the agent to present the offer to the seller. Frankly, I thought I'd be lucky if they came back with any kind of counter-offer on a proposal this low. To my amazement, I got the offer back in the mail a few days later, accepted at the price and terms that I had proposed.
I'm sure that I got a terrific buy on the land. Within a year, I'd sold 60 of the acres for more than I paid for the whole hundred. Later I sold another 20 acres for more than I paid for the whole hundred. So when they accepted my offer, I should have been thinking, "Wow. That's terrific, I couldn't have gotten a lower price." That's what I should have been thinking, but I wasn't. I was thinking, "I could have done better."
So it doesn't have anything to do with the price. It has to do only with the way the other person reacts to the proposal.
Second reaction: Something must be wrong.
My second reaction when I received the accepted offer on the land was, "Something must be wrong. I'm going to take a thorough look at the preliminary title report when it comes in. Something must be going on that I don't understand, if they're willing to accept an offer that I didn't think they would."
The second thought you'd have when the seller of that car said "Yes" to your first offer is that something must be wrong. These two reactions will go through anybody's mind if you say "Yes" to the first offer.
Let's say your son came to you and said, "Could I borrow the car tonight?" and you said, "Sure son, take it. Have a wonderful time." Wouldn't he automatically think, "I could have done better. I could have gotten $10 for the movie out of this"? And wouldn't he automatically think, "What's going on here? Why do they want me out of the house? What's going on that I don't understand?"
This is a very easy negotiating principle to understand, but it's very hard to remember when you're in the thick of a negotiation.
You may have formed a mental picture of how you expect the other side to respond and that's a dangerous thing to do. Napoleon Bonaparte once said, "The unforgivable sin of a commander is to "form a picture," to assume that the enemy will act a certain way in a given situation, when in fact his response may be altogether different." So you're expecting them to counter at a ridiculously low figure and to your surprise the other person's proposal is much more reasonable than you expected it to be. For example,
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You've finally plucked up the courage to ask your boss for an increase in pay. You've asked for a 15 percent increase in pay, but you think you'll be lucky to get 10 percent. To your astonishment, your boss tells you that he or she thinks you're doing a terrific job, and they'd love to give you the increase in pay. Do you find yourself thinking what a wonderfully generous company this is that you work for? I don't think so. You're probably wishing you'd asked for a 25 percent increase.
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Your son asks you for $100 to take a weekend hiking trip. You say, "No way. I'll give you $50 and not a penny more." In reality, expect to settle for $75. To your surprise your son says, "That would be tight, Dad, but okay, $50 would be great." Are you thinking how clever you were to get him down to $50? I don't think so. You're probably wondering how much less he would have settled for.
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You're selling a piece of real estate that you own. You're asking $100,000. A buyer makes an offer at $80,000, and you counter at $90,000. You're thinking that you'll end up at $85,000, but to your surprise the buyer immediately accepts the $90,000 offer. Admit it. Aren't you thinking that if they jumped at $90,000, you could have gotten them up more?
So Power Negotiators are careful that they don't fall into the trap of saying "Yes" too quickly, which automatically triggers in the other person's mind:
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I could have done better. (And next time I will. A sophisticated person won't tell you that he felt that he lost in the negotiation; but he will tuck it away in the back of his mind, thinking "The next time I deal with this person I'll be a tougher negotiator. I won't leave any money on the table next time.")
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Something must be wrong.
Turning down the first offer may be tough to do, particularly if you've been calling on the person for months and just as you're about to give up, she comes through with a proposal. It will tempt you to grab what you can. When this happens, be a Power Negotiator. Remember not to say "Yes" too quickly.
Many years ago, I was president of a real estate company in southern California that had 28 offices and 540 sales associates. One day a magazine salesman called on me. He was trying to sell me advertising space in his magazine. I was familiar with the magazine and knew it to be an excellent opportunity, so I wanted my company to be in it. He made me a very reasonable proposal that required a modest $2,000 investment.
Because I love to negotiate, I started using some Gambits on him and got him down to the incredibly low price of $800. You can imagine what I was thinking at that point. Right. I was thinking, "Holy cow. If I got him down from $2,000 to $800 in just a few minutes, I wonder how low I can get him to go if I keep on negotiating?" So, I used a Middle Gambit on him called Higher Authority. I said, "This looks fine. I do just have to run it by my board of directors. Fortunately, they're meeting tonight. Let me run it by them and get back to you with the final okay."
A couple of days later I called him back and said, "You'll never know how embarrassed I am about this. You know, I really felt that I wouldn't have any problem at all selling the board of directors on that $800 price you quoted me, but they're so difficult to deal with right now. The budget has been giving everyone headaches lately. They did come back with a counter-offer, but it's so low that it embarrasses me to tell you what it is."
There was a long pause, and he finally said, "How much did they agree to?" "$500." "That's okay. I'll take it," he said. And I felt cheated. Although I'd negotiated him down from $2,000 to $500, I still felt that I could have done better.
There's a postscript to this story. I'm always reluctant to tell stories such as this at my seminars for fear that it may get back to the person with whom I was negotiating. However, several years later I was speaking at the huge California Association of Realtors convention being held that year in San Diego. I told this story in my talk, never imagining that the magazine salesman was standing in the back of the room.
As I finished my presentation, I saw him pushing his way through the crowd. I braced myself for what I expected to be a verbal assault. However, he shook my hand and said with a smile, "I can't thank you enough for explaining that to me. I had no idea the impact that my tendency to jump at a quick deal was having on people. I'll never do that again."
I used to think that it was a 100 percent rule that you should never say "Yes" to the first offer. Until I heard from a man in Los Angeles who told me, "I was driving down Hollywood Boulevard last night, listening to your cassette tapes in my car. I stopped at a gas station to use the rest room. When I came back to my car, somebody stuck a gun in my ribs and said, "Okay buddy. Give me your wallet." Well, I'd just been listening to your tapes, so I said, "I'll give you the cash, but let me keep the wallet and the credit cards, fair enough?" And he said, "Buddy, you didn't listen to me, did you? Give me the wallet!"
So sometimes you should say "Yes" to the first offer, but it's almost a 100 percent rule that you should Never Jump at the First Offer.
Key points to remember:
Never say "Yes" to the first offer or counter-offer from the other side. It automatically triggers two thoughts: I could have done better (and next time I will) and Something must be wrong.
The big danger is when you have formed a mental picture of how the other person will respond to your proposal and he comes back much higher than you expected. Prepare for this possibility so it you won't catch you off guard. |
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Everything You Need to Know About FICO Scores
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Four years ago, credit scoring had little to do with mortgage lending . When reviewing the credit worthiness of a borrower, an underwriter would make a subjective decision based on past payment history.
Then things changed.
Lenders studied the relationship between credit scores and mortgage delinquencies. There was a definite relationship. Almost half of those borrowers with FICO scores below 550 became ninety days delinquent at least once during their mortgage.
On the other hand, only two out of every 10,000 borrowers with FICO scores above eight hundred became delinquent.
So lenders began to take a closer look at FICO scores and this is what they found out. The chart below shows the likelihood of a ninety day delinquency for specific FICO scores.
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FICO Score |
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odds of a delinquent account |
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595 |
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2.25 |
to |
1 |
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600 |
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4.5 |
to |
1 |
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615 |
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9 |
to |
1 |
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630 |
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18 |
to |
1 |
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645 |
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36 |
to |
1 |
|
660 |
|
72 |
to |
1 |
|
680 |
|
144 |
to |
1 |
|
700 |
|
288 |
to |
1 |
|
780 |
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576 |
to |
1 |
If you were lending a couple hundred thousand dollars, who would you want to lend it to?
What affects FICO scores--How do lenders look at them
Imagine a busy lending office and a loan officer has just ordered a credit report. He hears the whir of the laser printer, and he knows the pages of the credit report are going to start spitting out in just a second.
There is a moment of tension in the air. He watches the pages stack up in the collection tray, but he waits to pick them up until all of the pages are finished printing. He waits because FICO scores are located at the end of the report.
Previously, he would have probably picked them up as they came off. A FICO above 700 will evoke a smile, then a grin, perhaps a shout and a "victory" style arm pump in the air. A score below 600 will definitely result in a frown, a furrowed brow, and concern.
FICO stands for Fair Isaac & Company, and credit scores are reported by each of the three major credit bureaus: TRW (Experian), Equifax, and Trans-Union.
The score does not come up exactly the same on each bureau because each bureau places a slightly different emphasis on different items. Scores range from 365 to 840.
Some of the things that affect your FICO scores
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Delinquencies
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Too many accounts opened within the last twelve months
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Short credit history
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Balances on revolving credit are near the maximum limits
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Public records, such as tax liens, judgments, or bankruptcies
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No recent credit card balances
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Too many recent credit inquiries
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Too few revolving accounts
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Too many revolving accounts
Sounds confusing, doesn't it?
The credit score is actually calculated using a "scorecard" where you receive points for certain things. Creditors and lenders who view your credit report do not get to see the scorecard, so they do not know exactly how your score was calculated. They just see the final scores.
Basic guidelines on how to view the FICO scores vary a little from lender to lender.
Usually, a score above 680 will require a very basic review of the entire loan package. Scores between 640 and 680 require more thorough underwriting. Once a score gets below 640, an underwriter will look at a loan application with a more cautious approach. Many lenders will not even consider a loan with a FICO score below 600, some as high as 620.
FICO scores and interest rates
Credit scores can affect more than whether your loan gets approved or not. They can also affect how much you pay for your loan, too.
Some lenders establish a "base price" and will reduce the points on a loan if the credit score is above a certain level.
For example, one major national lender reduces the cost of a loan by a quarter point if the FICO score is greater than 725. If it is between 700 and 724, they will reduce the cost by one-eighth of a point. A point is equal to one percent of the loan amount.
There are other lenders who do it in reverse. They establish their base price, but instead of reducing the cost for good FICO scores, they "add on" costs for lower FICO scores.
The results from either method would work out to be approximately the same interest rate. It is just that the second way "looks" better when you are quoting interest rates on a rate sheet or in an advertisement.
FICO scores as guidelines
FICO scores are only "guidelines" and factors other than FICO scores affect underwriting decisions. Some examples of compensating factors that will make an underwriter more lenient toward lower FICO scores can be a larger down payment, low debt-to-income ratios, an excellent history of saving money, and others. There also may be a reasonable explanation for items on the credit history which negatively impact your credit score.
They don't always make sense
Even so, sometimes credit scores do not seem to make any sense at all. One borrower with a completely flawless credit history had a FICO score below 600. One borrower with a foreclosure on her credit report had a FICO above 780.
Portfolio & sub-prime lenders
Finally, there are a few "portfolio" lenders who do not even look at credit scoring, at least on their portfolio loans. A portfolio lender is usually a savings and loan institution who originates some adjustable rate mortgages that they intend to keep in their own portfolio instead of selling them in the secondary mortgage market.
They may look at home loans differently. Some concentrate on the value of the home. Some may concentrate more on the savings history of the borrower.
There are also "sub-prime" lenders, or "B & C paper" lenders, who will provide a home loan, but at a higher interest rate and cost.
Running credit reports
One thing to remember when you are shopping for a home loan is that you should not let numerous mortgage lenders run credit reports on you. Wait until you have a reasonable expectation that they are the lender you are going to use to obtain your home loan.
Not only will you have to explain any credit inquiries in the last ninety days, but numerous inquiries will lower your FICO score by a small amount. This may not matter if your FICO is 780, but it would matter to you if it is 642.
Don't buy a car just before looking for a home!
In conclusion, a word of advice not directly related to FICO scores. When people begin to think about the possibility of buying a home, they often think about buying other big ticket items, such as cars.
Quite often when someone asks a lender to pre-qualify them for a home loan there is a brand new car payment on the credit report. Often, they would have qualified in their anticipated price range except that the new car payment has raised their debt-to-income ratio, lowering their maximum purchase price.
Sometimes they have bought the car so recently that the new loan doesn't even show up on the credit report yet, but with six to eight credit inquiries from car dealers and automobile finance companies it is kind of obvious.
Almost every time you sit down in a car dealership, it generates two inquiries into your credit.
Credit history is important
Nowadays, credit scores are important if you want to get the best interest rate available. Protect your FICO score.
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Do not open new revolving accounts needlessly.
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Do not fill out credit applications needlessly.
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Do not keep your credit cards nearly maxed out.
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Make sure you do use your credit occasionally.
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Always make sure every creditor has their payment in their office no later than 29 days past due.
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And never, ever be more than thirty days late on your mortgage--ever. |
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How to Use Mortgage Brokers to Your Advantage
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This article is designed to provide general background information for those who invest in residential real estate to aid them in making reasonably informed decisions about the merits of using a mortgage broker to arrange loans for purchases, sales, refinances, cash out transactions, rehabs or construction projects, as well as for personal needs.
Understand brokers and the services they provide
On the most basic level, mortgage brokers act as intermediaries between a borrower and a lender. While some loans a broker may arrange are also available directly from a lender, many lenders work only through brokers.
In addition to negotiating loans with third party lenders, some brokers also perform the role of a lender and self-fund loans.
Most banks provide a very limited range of mortgage loan products; usually a mix of the standard conventional loans (fixed, adjustable, balloon and buy down), a few portfolio loans with less strict underwriting, and one or more credit lines.
A typical mortgage broker will have 20 to 50 times the number of loan products, frequently having all that a bank has to offer and many, many programs that banks do not provide at all.
The additional products that brokers provide frequently have much more liberal underwriting guidelines which will allow these loans to have one or more of the following features:
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Cash out up to 100% of the value of the property
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Debt ratios of 50% and higher
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Availability to borrowers whose recent credit history includes serious derogatory information (late mortgage payments, judgments, liens, foreclosure, etc.)
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No income verification
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Refinances with very little seasoning
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New employment permitted
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No employment permitted
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Other major deficiencies
With a larger number of lenders and programs to choose from, brokers can often find the ideal balance between cost, loan terms, liberal underwriting standards and speed.
Most mortgage brokers are very knowledgeable about all phases of the loan process. Since brokers are commonly paid only when they close a loan, they have great incentives to package the loan applications correctly and to intercede when the inevitable snags occur.
Though not every problem is curable, many are. Brokers typically maintain good working relationships with appraisers, title companies, underwriters and the other professionals often needed in the process.
If you need an appraisal done quickly, an opinion from an underwriter, a closing at your home or office, a payoff from a creditor, correction of inaccurate credit reports or a letter explaining credit problems a good mortgage broker can either handle the problem for you or advise how best to accomplish the task.
Additionally, most brokers know when to contest a low appraised value and when to dispute a turned down loan application and, failing those challenges, which lender to try next.
Consider strengths and limitations of particular brokers and establish relationships before you need them
It is the rare company or individual that can be all things to all people. But many brokers can come close. The critical determination is whether or not they will meet your needs. Though not always possible, the best time to shop for a broker is before you actually need one.
They can evaluate your ability to get various kinds of loans, uncover credit problems that may be correctable, point out strategies to reduce your debt and/or debt ratios, inform you of the consequences (if any) of assuming additional debt not related to real estate, help you deal with the late payments on your credit from a loan you co-signed, suggest purchase scenarios that fit with your capabilities, and guide you towards putting together a loan package that, with minor updates, will allow you to apply for and close on loans in the shortest amount of time.
Additionally, the loan application forms and statements of net worth that they can provide will help you better understand your financial position.
By talking to several brokers you gain valuable insights into their style and methods of conducting business, their ability to communicate what you need to understand, the types of loan products they have available, the costs of the various loans, the level of their expertise and the quality of their references. If you are established with a bank, compare their products and service with the offerings of the brokers as well.
Determine the benefits you need
The more precisely you can define what it is you want to accomplish, the more likely a broker can provide what will serve you best. Is the loan needed for a relatively short term? Perhaps a balloon or adjustable product will be less expensive overall.
Do you need to close in under one week, to finance with none of your own money, to get cash out at the closing when you buy? A broker who funds their own loans or who arranges hard money loans may be the answer.
Do you want to pay interest only, be able to pay down the principal and borrow again without reapplying for a loan? Brokers can arrange credit lines.
Is the loan for a buyer who doesn't have cash? The broker may suggest ways around the dilemma. Do you need to consolidate debt to create more cash flow or need to negotiate short payoffs on liens or buy six properties in 3 months or get a loan while you are facing foreclosure? Ask a broker for assistance.
Understand the basics of lending and underwriting
Historically, most lenders have felt that the safest real estate loans are those provided in circumstances where some portion of the equity (usually the purchase down payment) is supplied by the borrower, with a principal amount not exceeding 80% of the appraised value or the purchase price (whichever is lower), on owner occupied, residential single family properties, with urban lots five acres or under, in areas with recent sales of comparable properties, made to borrowers with no credit delinquencies, and who have enough verifiable income such that their housing expense (principal, interest, property taxes, hazard insurance) does not exceed 28% of their gross monthly income. And such that their total monthly debt payments (housing expense plus payments for auto, credit cards, school loans, child support, etc.) do not exceed 36% of their gross monthly income and who have been employed in the same line of work for at least two years. Conventional, conforming loans would meet these guidelines.
Mortgage loan products (also called mortgage loan programs) are designed and created to fill the needs of a group of borrowers and to provide the lenders with a particular yield (return on their investment).
Typically, the riskier the lender perceives the type of loan to be and the group of borrowers to be, the higher return they will require. The higher return is necessary to maintain profitability after they cover the higher costs of collecting delinquencies and the higher losses they expect to incur due to the greater numbers of defaults that come the more a loan deviates from the "safe" standard above.
The availability of loans with less restrictive guidelines tends to change over time. From 1990 through the date this article is written (early 1997), non-conforming lenders have made available an ever increasing array of products with higher risk factors--loans that make borrowing as an owner occupant or investor easier.
Higher debt ratios, lower credit quality, higher loan-to-value ratios, shorter seasoning, less strict income verification are features of some of these newer loans. If time tends to show that the lenders have misjudged the profitability of these programs or if the government intercedes for some reason, these programs may become more restrictive or disappear altogether.
There are thousands of loan products that have more lenient standards than the "safest." The more lenient (and, therefore, risky) the standards, the more expensive the loans tend to be.
Some combination of higher interest rates, higher points and/or prepayment penalties are typically used by lenders to increase their yield to the point where the extra income covers the added risk and provides a better assurance of profitability.
Also, when the risk for default is high, lenders will demand a greater margin of safety by way of a lower loan-to-value ratio.
Familiarize yourself with various loan products
Loan products are tools. Each one has a different purpose. Using the right tool for the job always makes the task much easier. Take the time to learn about the available loan products in your area, and you may find yourself closing more deals this year.
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Real Estate, Mortgage, and Legal Terms Glossary
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Abstract of Title A compilation of the recorded documents relating to a parcel of land, from which an attorney may give an option as to the condition of title. Also known in some states as a "preliminary title report."
Acknowledgment A declaration made by a personal signing a document before a notary public or other officer.
Adverse Possession Most states have laws which permit someone to claim ownership of property which is occupied by him for a number of years. This is common where a fence is erected over a boundary line (called an "encroachment") without the objection of the rightful owner. After a number of years, the person who erected the fence may be able to commence a court proceeding to declare that the property belongs to him.
All-Inclusive Deed of Trust See "wraparound mortgage."
ALTA American Land Title Association
Amortize To reduce a debt by regular payments of both principal and interest.
Appraised Value The value of a property at a given time, based on facts regarding the location, improvements, etc., of the property and surroundings.
ARM An adjustable rate mortgage--that is, a loan whose interest rate may adjust over time depending on certain factors or a pre-determined formula.
Arrears Payment made after its due is in arrears. Interest is said to be paid in arrears since it is paid to the date of payment rather than in advance.
Assignment of Contract A process by which a person sells, transfers, and/or assigns his rights under and agreement. Often used in the context of the assignment of a purchase contract by a buyer or the assignment of a lease by a tenant.
Assumable Loan A loan secured by a mortgage or deed of trust containing no "due on sale" provision. Most pre-1989 FHA loans and pre-1988 VA loans are assumable without qualification. Some newer loans may be assumed with the express permission of the note holder.
Assumption of Mortgage Agreement by a buyer to assume the liability under an existing note secured by a mortgage or deed of trust.
Balloon Mortgage A note calling for periodic payments that are insufficient to fully amortize the face amount of the note prior to maturity, so that a principal sum known as a "balloon" is due at maturity.
Basis The financial interest one has in a property for tax purposes. Basis is adjusted down by depreciation and up by capital improvements.
Binder A report issued by a title insurance company setting forth the condition of title and setting forth conditions that, if satisfied, will cause a policy of title insurance to be issued. Also known as a "title commitment."
Buyer's Agent A real estate broker or agent who represents the the buyer's interests, although typically his fee is a split of the listing broker's commission. Also known as the "selling agent."
Capital Gain Profit from the sale of a "capital" asset, such as real property. A long-term capital gain is a gain derived from property held more than 12 months. Long-term gains can be taxed at lower rates than short-term gains.
Chain of Title The chronological order of conveyance of a parcel of land from the original owner to the present owner.
Closing The passing of a deed or mortgage, signifying the end of a sale or mortgage of real property. Also known in some areas as "passing papers" or "closing of escrow."
Cloud on Title An uncertainty, doubt, or claim against the rights of the owner of a property, such as a recorded purchase contract or option.
Commitment A written promise to make or insure a loan for a specified amount and on specified items. Also used in the context of title insurance ("title commitment").
Community Property In community property states (CA, LA, TX, WI, ID, AZ, NV, NM, WA), all property of husband and wife acquired after the marriage is presumed to belong to both, regardless of how it is titled.
Comparables Properties used as comparisons to determine the value of a specified property.
Condominium A structure of two or more units, the interior space of which are individually owned. The common areas are owned as tenants in common by the condominium owners, and ownership is restricted by an association.
Contingency The dependence upon a stated event which must occur before a contract is binding. Used both in the context of a loan and a contract of sale.
Contract of Sale A bilateral (two-way) agreement wherein the seller agrees to sell and buyer agrees to buy a certain parcel of land, usually with improvements. Also used in reference to an Installment Land Contract (see below).
Contract for Deed See "Installment Land Contract."
Closing Cost Expenses incurred in the closing of a real estate or mortgage transaction. Most fees are associated with the buyer or borrower's loan.
Conventional Mortgage A loan neither insured by the FHA, nor guaranteed by the VA.
Cooperative Apartment A cooperative is a corporation which holds title to the land and building. Each coop owner has shares of stock in the corporation, which corresponds to an equivalent proprietary lease of his apartment space. Coops were popular in New York City at one time, but are now less common because of their lack of marketability due to high association fees.
Deficiency The difference between the amount owed to a note holder and the proceeds received from a foreclosure sale. The lender may, in some states, obtain a "deficiency judgment" against the borrower for the difference.
Depreciation Decrease in value to real property improvements caused by deterioration or obsolescence.
Documentary Tax Stamps Stamps, affixed to a deed, showing the amount of transfer tax. Some states simply charge the transfer tax without affixing stamps. Also known as "doc stamps."
Double Closing A closing wherein a property is bought and sold simultaneously. Also called "double escrow" and "flipping."
Due on Sale Clause A provision in a mortgage or deed of trust that gives the lender the option to require payment in full of the indebtedness upon transfer of title to the property (or any interest therein).
Easement An interest that one has in the land of another. May be created by grant, reservation, agreement, prescription, or necessary implication.
Eminent Domain A constitutional right for a governmental authority to acquire private property for public use by condemnation, and the payment of just compensation.
Encroachment Construction or imposition of a structure onto the property of another.
Encumbrance A claim, lien, or charge against real property.
Equity The difference between the market value of the property and the homeowners mortgage debt.
Equitable Title The interest of the purchase under an installment land contract (see below).
Escrow Delivery of a deed by a grantor to a third party for delivery to the grantee upon the happening of a contingent event.
Escrow Payment That portion of a borrower´s monthly payment held in trust by the lender to pay for taxes, mortgage insurance, hazard insurance, lease payments, and other items as they become due. Also know as "impounds."
Estate From the English feudal system, this defines the extent of one's ownership in a property.
Estate for Years An estate limited to a term of years. An estate for years is commonly called a "lease." Upon the expiration of the estate for years, the property reverts back to the former owner.
Fee Simple The highest form of ownership. An estate under which the owner is entitled to unrestricted powers to dispose of the property, and which can be left by will or inherited. Also known as "Fee" or "Fee Simple Absolute."
Federal Housing Administration (FHA) A federal agency which insures first mortgages, enabling lenders to loan a very high percentage of the sale price.
Freddie Mac (FHLMC) Federal Home Loan Mortgage Corporation--A federal agency purchasing first mortgages, both conventional and federally insured, from members of the Federal Reserve System, and the Federal Home Loan Bank System.
Foreclosure A proceeding to extinguish all rights, title, and interest of the owner(s) of property in order to sell the property to satisfy a lien against it. About half of the states use a "mortgage foreclosure," which is a lawsuit in court. About half use a "power of sale" proceeding which is dictated by a deed of trust and is usually less time consuming.
Ginnie Mac (GNMA) Government National Mortgage Association--A federal association working with FHA which offers special assistance in obtaining mortgages and purchases mortgages in a secondary capacity.
Good Faith Estimate A lender's estimate of closing costs and monthly payment required by R.E.S.P.A.
Grant Deed A deed commonly used in California to convey title. By law, a grant deed gives certain warranties of title.
Grantor/Grantee Index The most common document recording indexing system is by grantor (the person conveying an interest, usually the seller or mortgagor) and grantee (the person receiving an interest, usually the buyer or mortgagee). All documents conveying property or an interest therein (deed, mortgage, lease, easement, etc.) are recorded by the grantor's last name in the grantor index. The same transaction is cross-indexed by the grantee's last name in the grantee index.
Heirs and Assigns Words usually found in a contract or deed that indicate the obligations assumed, or interest granted, or binding upon, or insure to benefit of the heirs or assigns of the party.
Homeowner's Association An association of people who own homes in a given area for the purpose of improving or maintaining the quality of the area. Also used in the context of a condominium association.
Impound Account Account held by a lender for payment of taxes, insurance, or other payments. Also known as an "escrow" account.
Index The measure of interest rate changes that the lender uses to decide how the interest rate on an ARM (adjustable rate mortgage) will change over time.
Installment Land Contract The ILC is an agreement wherein the buyer makes payments in a manner similar to a mortgage. The buyer has "equitable title." However, the seller holds legal title to the property until the contract is paid off. The buyer has equitable title, and, for all intents and purposes, is the owner of the property. Also known as a "contract for deed" or "contract of sale."
Installment Sale A sale which is involves the seller receiving payments over time. The Internal Revenue Code contains specific definitions and promulgates specific rules concerning installment sales and tax treatment of them. Also known as an "owner carry" sale.
Insured Mortgage A mortgage insured against loss to the mortgagee in the event of default and failure of the mortgaged property to satisfy the balance owing plus costs of foreclosure.
Interest Rate The percentage of an amount of money which is paid for its use for a specified time.
Joint and Several Liability A liability which allows a creditor to collect against any one of the debtors for the entire amount of the debt, regardless of fault or culpability. Most mortgage notes that are signed by husband and wife create joint and several liability.
Joint Tenancy An undivided interest in property, taken by two or more joint tenants. The interests must be equal, accruing under the same conveyance, and beginning at the same time. Upon death of a joint tenant the interest passes to the surviving joint tenants, rather than to the heirs of the deceased.
Judgment The decision of a court of law. Money judgments, when recorded, become a lien on real property of the defendant.
Land Lease Owners of property will sometimes give long-term leases of land up to 99 years. A lease of more than 99 years is considered a transfer of fee simple. Land leases are commonly used to build banks, car lots, and shopping malls upon.
Land Trust A revocable, living trust primarily used to hold title to real estate for privacy and anonymity. Also known as an "Illinois Land Trust" or "Nominee Trust." The land trustee is a nominal title holder with the beneficiaries having the exclusive right to direct and control the actions of the trustee.
Lease Option An agreement by which the lessee (tenant) has the unilateral option to purchase the leased premises from the lessor (landlord). Some lease option agreements provide for a portion of the rent to be applied towards the purchase price. The price may be fixed at the beginning of the agreement or be determined by another formula, such as an appraisal at a later time. Also referred to as a "lease purchase."
Lease Purchase Often used interchangeably with the expression "lease option," but technically means a lease in conjunction with a bilateral purchase agreement. Often used by agents to mean a purchase agreement whereby the tenant takes possession prior to close of escrow.
Lien An encumbrance against property for money, either voluntary (mortgage), involuntary (judgment), or by operation of law (property tax lien).
Life Estate An estate in real property for the life of a living person. The estate then reverts back to the grantor or to a third party.
Lis Pendens A legal notice recorded to show pending litigation relating to real property and giving notice that anyone acquiring an interest in said property subsequent to the date of the notice may be bound by the outcome of the litigation. Often filed prior to a mortgage foreclosure proceeding.
License An authority to do a particular act or series of acts upon the land of another without possessing any estate or interest therein (for example, a ski lift ticket). A license is similar to an easement in that it gives someone permission to go across your property for a specific purpose. An easement is a property interest, whereas a license is a contractual right.
Liquidated Damages A contract clause which limits a party to a sum certain in lieu of actual damages. In the case of a real estate purchase and sale contract, the seller's legal remedy is limited to the buyer's earnest money deposit.
Loan-to-Value Ratio The ratio of the mortgage loan amount to the property's appraised value or the selling price--whichever is less.
Market Analysis A report estimating the resale value of a property. Usually prepared by an agent showing comparable sales of properties in the vicinity based on tax records and information from the Multiple Listing Service.
Marketable Title Title which can be readily marketed to a reasonably prudent purchaser aware of the facts and their legal meaning concerning liens and encumbrances.
Mechanic's Lien A lien created by state law for the purpose of securing priority of payment for the price of value of work performed and materials furnished in construction of repair of improvements to land that is attached to the land as well as the improvements.
Mortgage Broker One who, for a fee, brings together a borrower and lender and handles the necessary applications for the borrower to obtain a loan against real property by giving a mortgage or deed of trust as security.
Mortgage Guaranty Insurance Corporation (MGIC) A private corporation that, for a fee, insures mortgage loans similar to FHA and VA insurance, although not insuring as great a percentage of the loan.
Mortgage A security instrument given by a borrower to secure performance of payment under a note. The document is recorded in county land records, creating a lien (encumbrance) on the property. Also known as a "deed of trust" in some state. The borrower is also called a "mortgagor."
Mortgage Insurance Insurance required for loans with a loan-to-value ratio above 80%. Also called "PMI" or "MIP."
Note A written promise to repay a certain sum of money on specified terms. Also known as a "promissory note."
Option The unilateral right to do something. For example, the right to renew a lease or purchase a property. The optionee is the holder of the option. The optionor is the grantor of the option. The optionor is bound by the option, but the optionee is not.
Origination Fee A fee or charge for work involved in the evaluation, preparation, and submission of a proposed mortgage loan, usually about 1% of the loan amount.
Performance Mortgage A mortgage or deed of trust given to secure performance of an obligation other than a promissory note
Periodic Tenancy An estate from week-to-week, month-to-month, etc. In the absence of a written agreement (or upon the expiration of a lease once payments are accepted), a periodic tenancy is created. Either party can terminate this type of arrangement by giving notice, usually equal to the amount of the period or as prescribed by state law.
Points Fee paid by a borrower to obtain a loan. A point is one percent of the principal amount of the loan. The borrower may usually pay more points to reduce the interest rate of the loan.
Prorate To divide in proportionate shares. Used in the context of a closing, at which such as property taxes, interest, rents, and other items are adjusted in favor of the seller, buyer, or lender.
Purchase Money Mortgage A loan obtained in conjunction with the purchase of real estate.
Quiet Title Proceeding A court action to establish or clear up uncertainty as to ownership to real property. Often required if a lien or cloud appears on title that cannot be resolved.
Quit Claim Deed A deed by which the grantor gives up any claim he may have in the property. Often used to clear up a cloud on title.
Real Estate Land, anything permanently affixed to the land, and those things attached to the buildings.
Recording The act of publicly filing documents, such as deeds or mortgages
Recourse Note A note under which the holder can look to the borrower personally for payment.
Redemption The right, in some states, for an owner or lien holder to satisfy the indebtedness due on a mortgage in foreclosure after sale.
Refinancing The repayment of a loan from the proceeds of a new loan using the same property as collateral.
Reissue Rate A discounted charge for a title insurance policy if a previous policy on the same property was issued within a specified period (usually three to five years).
Release An instrument releasing a lien or or encumbrance (for example, a mortgage) from a property.
RESPA Real Estate Settlement Procedures Act--A federal law requiring disclosure of certain costs in the sale of residential property that is to be financed by a federally insured lender. It also requires that the lender provide a "good faith estimate" of closing costs prior to closing of the loan.
Second Mortgage A loan secured by a mortgage or trust deed in which the lien is junior to a first mortgage or deed of trust.
Secondary Mortgage Market The buying and selling of first mortgages and deeds of trust deeds by banks, insurance companies, government agencies, and other mortgagees.
Security Instrument A document under which collateral is pledged (e.g. mortgage)
Settlement Statement A statement prepared by a closing agent (usually a title or escrow company) giving a complete breakdown of costs and charges involved in a real estate transaction. Required by RESPA on a form HUD-1.
Specific Performance An action to compel the performance of a contract.
Sublet To let part of one's estate in a lease. A subtenant is not in privity of contract with the landlord, and neither can look to each each for performance of a lease agreement.
Subject to When transferring title to a property encumbered by a mortgage lien without paying off the debt or assuming the note, the buyer is taking title "subject to the existing financing."
Subordination The process by which a lien holder agrees to permit his lien to become junior or "subordinate" to another lien.
Tenancy in Common With tenancy in common, each owner (called a "tenant") has an undivided interest in the possession of the property. Each tenant´s interest is salable and transferable. Each tenant can convey his interest by deed, mortgage, or by a will. Joint ownership is presumed tenants in common if nothing further is stated on the deed.
Tenancy by the Entirety A form of ownership recognized in some states by which husband and wife each owns the entire property. As with joint tenancy, in event of death of one, the survivor owns the property without probate. In some states, tenancy by entirety protects the property from obligations of one spouse.
Title Title is the evidence of ownership. In essence, title is more important than ownership because having proper title is proof of ownership. If you have a problem with your title, you will have trouble proving your ownership, and thus selling or mortgaging your property.
Title Insurance An insurance policy that protects the insured (purchaser and/or lender) against loss arising from defects in title. A policy protecting the lender is called a "Loan Policy," whereas a policy protecting the purchaser is called an "Owner's Policy." Virtually all transactions involving a loan require title insurance.
Truth in Lending Federal law requiring, among other things, a disclosure of interest rates charges and other information about a loan.
Warranty Deed A deed under which the seller makes a guarantee or warranty that title is marketable and will defend all claims against it.
Wraparound Mortgage A mortgage that is subordinate to and incorporates the terms of an underlying mortgage. The mortgagor (borrower) makes payments to the mortgagee (lender) who then makes payments on an underlying mortgage. Also referred to as an "all inclusive deed of trust" in some states.
Yield Spread Premium A "kickback" from the lender to the mortgage broker for the additional profit made from marking up the interest rate on a loan.
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Rehab Old Kitchens & Bathrooms: An Inexpensive Facelift
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As a general contractor turned investor, it has been my goal to teach people as many ways as possible to get the highest quality work and results for the lowest possible price. Bringing up the value of an investment property and creating equity are two major factors in building wealth.
More profit is lost in the fix-up cost of real estate than any other aspect of investing. Therefore making a property look its best without losing your shirt is essential to the rehab business.
One of the most common things I have run across is kitchens and bathrooms with those old, stained cabinets. To give the house an inexpensive facelift, I use the following materials and techniques to renew the cabinets to a fresh, new, updated look.
You may use these same techniques to do stained trim work, stained doors, windows, and paneling. I prefer white semi-gloss look for updating older homes, and the new look can be done for under $100.
Step 1: Clean
First remove all the doorknobs or handles to the cabinets and drawers. Get a good sponge or cheesecloth and use white vinegar or distilled vinegar full strength to clean all surfaces. This step eliminates oil from cooking over the years and removes any greasy buildup on the surface.
Step 2: Sand
Get a sanding sponge and use some 200-grit sandpaper to lightly go over all surfaces. You are not trying to remove the stain color; you are just taking the gloss off of the stained area. Take a damp cloth or sponge to remove any dust from your project.
Step 3: Prime
Use an oil based primer such as KILZ or BIN brand and give all surfaces to be painted a good seal coat. This seals in any oils that will in time secrete through paints if not primed right. After your primer dries, use 100% acrylic latex paint on all cabinets and drawers.
I want to stress that I suggest good quality paint, brushes, and materials. You have not saved money or time if you have to do a project twice. With my quality brush and roller nap (3/8-inch nap), I will cut in the brushed areas and roll the other areas like normal painting.
Here´s a great tip: I use Sherwin Williams Pro Classic latex semi-gloss as my finish coat. No matter how it is applied, brush, roller, or spray, it is a self-leveling paint. What that means is that as it dries, it flattens out smooth like an oil-based paint and leaves a smooth look with no brush marks.
My color choice is always white. Clean white cabinets in kitchens and bathrooms make them look brand new and make the area look larger. Since it´s latex, all my clean up is with simple soap and water.
Here´s another tip: If your ever have to prime a surface or wall before painting and you're changing the color, have your primer tinted half-strength of the color your finish coat will be tinted. This eliminates an extra coat of paint trying to cover the white primer.
Last, replace all knobs and handles with fresh new hardware for great results and saving hundreds over replacing old cabinets. |
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